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In this tutorial, we’re going to learn to make the hat and scarf that I’m wearing right now It’s a Fisherman’s Rib hat and scarf, see here And I put this at about an advanced beginner level, and it’s sized for men and women If you’d like to get your copy of the pattern to follow along, just click the little “i” in the upper right-hand corner That will take you to my website I have used three colors in mine and added a faux fur pom pom, but if you wanna do this in just one or two colors, I give you the yarn amounts It is a worsted weight yarn, and if you’re using three colors, it’s likely that you can get by with using some, you know, extra leftover bits of yarn from other projects The Fisherman’s Rib is a traditional stitch that I worked with this hat and scarf, and it is a really thick fluffy stitch And if you think of air being a great insulator against the cold, this is just a lot of wool and a lot of air and very warm and too warm for me while I’m sitting in the studio right now recording this video But, next up, I will take off the hat and scarf, and we will get started with the cast on I am just about to show you what these look like close up and getting started with the cast on There’s one more thing that I wanted to say I’m going to walk through some pretty basic things with this tutorial, and if you are a more experienced knitter, you can probably get by knitting this pattern without the tutorial You might learn a few tricks here and there, you know, if you watch it all the way through, but, you know, things like joining in the round, magic loop joining in the round, I’m gonna demonstrate those, real basic stuff I want to make sure to include as many people as possible just in case these are new techniques to them Anyway, let’s go ahead and take a look at the stitch Okay, let me get a lighter color here There we go Okay, here’s the Fisherman’s Rib stitch, and if you look at it, you might be thinking, “That looks like 1×1 rib,” but it really doesn’t It’s actually upside down It doesn’t matter But it mattered to me It’s different from 1×1 rib in that the “V”s, the knit stitches, are really puffy, because there’s a knit one below stitches, and where there would be the purl stitch, it’s kind of this fish bone design And I’ve actually done up a sample of 1×1 rib here for you to see 1×1 rib, even when stretched out, it looks quite different from Fisherman’s Rib And 1×1 is pretty thin, and Fisherman’s Rib is pretty thick I’m not sure if that’s something that’s easily demonstrated on video Just trust me, this is a smooshy, squishy stitch, and we have the same thing going here in the hat Okay So, to get started, let me find the right sample, you’re going to cast on your stitches, and here I’m going to demonstrate using 16-inch circulars And all of the information about the needles I’m using, the yarn I’ve used, everything else is in the video description field below and on my website if you click the little “i.” So, to get started, joining in the round for a hat on 16-inch circulars I knit a lot of hats I love 16-inch circulars They’re just right for hats and sleeves, mostly hats Okay, what I’ve done is I’ve pulled the stitches kind of close to the tips of the needles and I’ve straightened out the cast on row so that all of the knots from the cast on are on the inside And I have the working yarn and the tail end, because I used a long tail cast on up over here I’m gonna turn everything so the needles are pointing at me and pull the working yarn over And nothing’s twisted That’s the point of this I have a stitch marker I’m gonna pop on the right needle I’ll pick everything up and just start knitting And the first round is just a straight knit round And the first couple of rounds are always a little slow The cast on row is a little slower and tighter than the rest, but that’s how you get started knitting in the round After the first round, when you hit the marker, you’ll just slip it from the right needle to the left Did I say that right? Yes, from the right needle to the left and then just keep going All right, I want to demonstrate magic loop cast on, and I have my cast on on a long circular

needle This is a 32-inch circular needle And the reason that folks use magic loop is because you can knit a hat, knit a small circumference, you know, a hat, or a sock, or something, without having needles just the right length You can use longer circular needles, which a lot of people have interchangeable sets that have long cords, but not everybody has a 16-inch set So this is another way to do it Okay I’m gonna do the same thing with making sure that nothing is twisted And I’m gonna find a spot just kind of somewhere in the middle of my stitches and pull the cord out Okay And that cord is just going to hang there That cord sticking out allows us to get a smaller circumference here Okay, I’ve made sure that nothing is twisted, and my stitches are close to the tips of the needles Now, this is considered the magic loop starting position So anytime you lose track with magic loop you always just start back here And then I have my working yarn on the top needle I pull the top needle long, and now I have cord sticking out over here and over here I’m gonna go ahead and pop a stitch marker on the right needle, put my needle in My working yarn’s way over here, but, no problem, I’m gonna pull it to wrap this stitch, and I am now joined in the round And, as you knit along, you’ll have cord sticking out over here and over here, but as long as you remember that you find your working yarn and your stitch to the left of that, your working yarn is coming from the right needle, the stitch to the left is your next stitch And so you won’t lose track of where you are And once you have knit up to this place where you have all this extra cord sticking out, you just find another spot in the work and pull the cord out, and just keep going Just keep that extra cord pulled out all the time, and you’ll always have this small circumference that you’re working on This cast on reel looks like kind of a mess I promise it’s not a mess after you get a couple of rounds finished It’s easy to see what you’re working on Okay, that’s the magic loop cast on If you would like more information on using magic loop, I’m gonna go ahead and give you a link here to my “Simple Magic Loop” video Okay And now I have the hat, and I wanna show you how to work the stitches in the hat I need my paper here Okay There are just two rows in this, odd number and even number I’m gonna show you the stitches in the odd number row It is knit one, knit one below And when we take a look at this, we have the stitch that’s actually attached to the needle, the loop over the needle, and then we have a “V” underneath that stitch We wanna poke the needle in the center of that “V,” and that’s knitting one below Okay, so knit one, knit one below I’m gonna stretch this out for you to see I’m just gonna put the needle in the center of that stitch And after you’ve worked the stitch for a while, it’s pretty easy Instead of going into the normal spot for a knit, your needle can find its way, muscle memory I wanna finish this round so I can show you the stitches used in…whoops…in the even-numbered rounds Okay In the even-numbered rounds, the repeat is purl one into stitch below, knit one Okay, so, again, we have the loop that’s on the needle, and we have the “V” underneath, and it looks a little bit different than the knit one below I’m gonna yarn forward, because I’m purling, and from the back I’m gonna come in right into the center of that stitch below the stitch on the needle and purl it, pull the old stitch

off, and knit one So, again, yarn forward to purl, go into the center of the stitch below, wrap the needle and pull it through, yarn back to knit one Yarn forward from the back right into the center of the stitch It feels like a normal knit stitch The only thing that’s different is you’re putting the stitch in differently Yarn forward, purl one below, yarn back, knit one Yarn forward, purl one below, yarn back, knit one One more time, taking a look at this stitch There’s the stitch that’s on the needle You see you have the “V” below it, and your needle goes right into the center of that “V.” And I recommend using a row counter The pattern gives you instructions for exactly how many rows to knit if you’re changing colors, and you do wanna keep track of odd and even-numbered rounds so you know which round you are on Okay I want to show how to work a lifeline And you see this here, this red cord that I have in the hat right here, this is a lifeline And the reason I’m stressing lifelines in this pattern is because it is not easy to recover stitches if you have to rip back in this pattern It’s easier to put in a proactive lifeline and then knit along, and if you make a mistake, you can rip back, and you have this handy, handy lifeline to help you pick up the stitches So let me grab this cord and a tapestry needle And this cord that I’m using is actually crochet thread, and I just found that it doesn’t snag on anything and it’s really handy for lifelines In the pattern, I tell you exactly where it’s a good idea to do lifelines Okay, so normally you’d wanna do this at the beginning of the round I’m just gonna go and do it here Whoops The easiest thing to do is to slide the stitches to the cord, because you have some extra room in there to fit the needle in, and just pull that cord You can use dental floss You can use lightweight, like sock weight yarn or lace weight yarn You just pull that through all of the stitches, and leave it there, and just keep knitting like it’s not there, and then just in case you make a mistake, you can rip back and easily recover the stitches And if you follow the directions that I give for exactly where to put them, you’ll know exactly what row you’re on If you’re a little more nervous, you can string it through after you finish, you know, every row two, for the fifth time, something like that so you know which row that you’ve finished and which row is being held with the proactive lifeline Okay Those are the basic techniques used in this hat, and that’s gonna keep you busy for a while Next up, we’re going to talk about finishing work and attaching pom poms, etc Okay I have so many pieces in front of me, so many things to demonstrate in this section And I meant to demonstrate the stitch in the scarf in the last section, but I realized that I’d finished the section without doing it, so I’m gonna show it to you right now Let’s go ahead and take a look Just like in the hat, it is a two-round, in this case, row repeat And what I like to do is take a clippy marker and put it here at the beginning of every odd-numbered round, every round one And so that’s just my trick so that I can make sure that I’m keeping track of what is the right and the wrong side There is no right and wrong side in this Let me just call it right and wrong side, right? Okay So I am ready to work round one, and it’s basically the same stitch It looks a little bit different That’s why I wanna show it to you So it is purl one, knit one into stitch below And the reason I want to show you this is that there is a purl bump here The last time we did knit one into stitch below, there was not this purl bump here, but we’re still looking at the “V” under the stitch and putting your stitch in there

And purl one, and knit one into stitch below You see how it looks a little bit different? If you make the hat first and then you go to the scarf, it’s kind of obvious that it’s different And so I wanted to make sure that you heard it from me There’s nothing wrong with your knitting It does look a little different Knit one into stitch below And then I’ll finish this row, and we’ll just look at the other side, too Okay, one more look at this You have the stitch on the needle, you have a little purl bump, and then you have a “V.” And your needle goes from the front to the back right into that “V,” okay? And on the even-numbered rows, it’s knit one, which you start out every even number row with a knit one, but you don’t repeat that And then it’s knit one, knit one into stitch below And this looks just like the knit one into stitch below that we worked in hat It’s just the loop on the needle and the “V.” That’s it Okay, I wanna finish this, because we’re going to use this sample for some things coming up here in this segment Whoops I’ll tell you, I just kind of poked my finger with this sharp needle It is easier to use sharper, longer-pointed needles, longer-tapered needles for this stitch, the knitting into stitch below Anyway, you end with knit two at the end of the rows, and that’s all explained in the pattern, of course So now I’m gonna show you how I like to weave in ends in ribbing, and the normal way to weave in an end is to, you know, zigzag across and then zigzag back a little bit But with rib, any kind of ribbing, you don’t really wanna do that, because it will take away some of the elasticity of the stitch And so this is what I like to do I have my tapestry needle and my end, and what I’m going to do is go up and down this rib of knit stitches So the first thing I’m going to do is to grab the right leg of the stitches that I see here And I only have five stitches here, because this is just a little piece of work I probably, you know, do maybe eight And pull that through And then I’m gonna go back down that same column of rib stitches, just grabbing the other leg And pull that through Make sure you don’t yank on it too tight You don’t want it to look different from the rest of the work And then you can cut that end short, and you haven’t messed with the elasticity of the work at all And even, this is a scarf, and there’s no wrong side, you can see it looks great There’s nothing weird about how that looks It doesn’t look like you wove an end in there Okay Now, I want to talk about adding fringe to the scarf And here is my fringe I love the way fringe looks I have attached just one strand of yarn for every cast on stitch You can skip some, or you can attach more than one strand of yarn I always like the way this looks It looks like bangs, doesn’t it? Now, the first thing we need is yarn and a piece of cardboard, and I have cut this cardboard to be a little longer than 4 inches And it’ll make for a fringe that’s a little shorter than 4 inches, because I’m gonna trim it when I’m finished So each one of these wraps is enough for one fringe, and you do not wanna stretch it and pull it You wanna keep it kind of loose around the board, and I usually wind about 10 to time a cell Let me cut this short Detach it from the ball first, and then just cut it off the cardboard, and you have these

perfect lengths This is not an advertisement for HP My printer orders its own ink, and that’s the box it came in Okay, so I’m looking at my work here I want to attach the fringe to the cast on and the bind off row I’m gonna look at these, and in both the cast on and the bind off row, you see a series of “V”s I wanna put my crochet hook under both legs of the “V,” like that, from back to front Or you can do from front to back, but if you’re consistent, that’s what you want Then take one of the strands you just cut and fold it in half, lining it up pretty good Pull that through, line it up again, and then pop those two ends through the loop and tighten You know, in my scarf, I did the fringe the same color as the end, but you can see here I’m getting creative It’s just the yarn I grabbed I don’t think I was paying attention So, through both legs of the “V” from back to front, fold it in half, make the loop big enough for your fingers while keeping it straightened, and tighten Now, as you’re doing this, your fringe is gonna look pretty good, but it’s not going to be perfect So what I did with mine was I set it out, I applied a little steam, because I had a few kinks in the yarn that I was using for the fringe, and then I just took bigger scissors and cut bangs And if you have a blocking border, something with a grid, it does make it easier That looks pretty good Anyway, I did it all the way across and then cut the bangs so it’s super, super straight and sharp Now, we are just moving through these pieces These pieces took me so long to make for the video, and we’re moving through them like lightning I’m gonna show you how to attach the pom pom This is a faux fur pom pom, and information for everything you see in the video is on my website I’m going to first detach it You get a good idea of how it’s attached when you watch me detach it Okay These pom poms that I’ve ordered have four strands of cord coming out Two is plenty You don’t need any more than two But if you don’t have a good strand of cord coming out of it, you can always just attach one Just get some cord, like what I use for the lifelines, on a needle and run it through the pom pom In these faux fur pom poms, there is a core of, like, fiberfill inside the faux fur fabric So I have a big tapestry needle I’m gonna put all four strands through the tapestry needle And then I have the top of my hat I’m gonna poke that into the very top and through Then I’m gonna separate the strands, here it’s two and two, just in half and thread two of those on the tapestry needle And get yourself a big button This is a big plastic button It is a cheap plastic button In fact, it’s only one-sided You can see the other side is…it’s not a great button It’s really cheap, but I like it because it’s big and the holes are big enough for a tapestry needle And I can give you a link to where I found these buttons I thread the other two and thread those through the button the opposite side So the button’s gonna act as a stabilizer and also something for us to…something to hold the knot So you can pull this pretty tightly, and I’m gonna tie this in a bow And the reason I’m tying it in a bow is because I want to be able to remove the pom pom at some point to wash the hat, and I can just easily attach it again But a tight bow is gonna hold it I mean, unless you’re attaching a pom pom like for a kid, who’s getting the pom pom pulled on in the playground or something, I mean, it’s not going anywhere, it’s attached pretty tightly The last thing is blocking, and you want to wash and block these just like you would any nets And, for me, I used a wool wash on both of these and then set the scarf out flat to dry

And, for the hat, I wanted to decreaser to look really good at the crown of the hat, so I actually let it dry over a cereal bowl I happen to have cereal bowls that are just the right size But you don’t have to You can let it dry flat and then just every now and then just kind of rough it up, I would flip it over, change position so it doesn’t get a crease in it when it’s drying Anyway, that is everything I hope you enjoyed knitting this Good luck

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