Hello dear Sewistas! Do you feel like sewing your own women’s shirt? Then you can put together your own design with the Pattydoo-Designer! And now I would like to show you step by step how you can sew a shirt like this one. Depending on what design you have chosen, I will explain the different neckline variations, sleeve shapes, and the two different hem types We will be using exclusively knit fabrics for our shirt, which means fabrics, that aren’t woven. So, for example jersey or single jersey The elasticity or stretchiness of you fabric will later determine the exact fit of your shirt, or how it feels For example, a shirt made out of a thin viscose jersey with elastanewill in the end be completely different from a shirt made from sturdy cotton, that has no elastane content! For the shirt we will need different pattern pieces, which I will now show you with my version of the shirt! This is the front part, which will later be sewn into gathers. This is the back piece, and both should be cut on the fold, so the cut sides of each piece match! Then we have the two short sleeves here. Furthermore, we need a strip for the neckline, two cuffs for the sleeves, and a wide cuff for the hem Apart from this shirt I will also be sewing two others: One with a wide turtle neck, long sleeves with cuffs, and a wide cuff at the hem. As well as another one with a V-neck, long sleeves, and simple hems You can sew your shirt with a normal sewing machine, but then there are a few things you should pay attention to. I have covered these issues, like which settings and stitch type you should use, here in my Elaine-Shirt Tutorial! I will be working with a serger, as well as with a coverlock machine. And now, let’s start! This first step is the same for all three versions of the shirt. So, we will first sew the shoulder seam In order to do so, we will lay the front piece and the back piece with the right sides together Before we now sew together the two shoulder seams, I have a little tip for you! You will have definitely seen this in store-bought shirts: they often have a fabric strip sewn into the shoulder seam. This strip is meant to prevent that the shoulder seam later gets stretched out or distended I have simply made this strip from the same fabric as the rest of the shirt, cutting it in the direction which is less stretchy. We will now lay this strip against the shoulder of the back piece, which will be lying in top when we sew. Then we pin everything in place and sew both shoulder seams The seam allowance here is 7 mm (or 0.25 “), and I have adjusted my serger machine accordingly Now, I’m just going to cut off the overhanging ends and the piece of the strip Next we will work on the neckline. I am now going to consecutively sew the different versions with you. First, the round neckline with optional gathers, then the V-neck, and last of all the big turtle neck If you don’t want to watch how to sew all the versions, then you can skip forward to yours now If you have chosen the round neckline without gathers, then you would sew on the neckline strip straight away I will now show you the other option, the one with the little gathers and how to prepare it In order to do this, I have transferred the notches on my pattern piece to the neckline They mark the area which will we will now gather. In this segment I have sewn two simple top-stich seams, with the largest stitch length available, i.e. 6. The distance of the seams to the edge should be 2mm (or 0.07 “) and 5mm (or 0.2 “) I have left the thread ends long at the beginning and the end of the seam. So, I can now knot them on one side and pull on them on the other, until I have gathered the fabric to the chosen length
The length is marked in the pattern piece, and for this shirt it’s 6cm (or 2.4 “) After we have evenly arranged the gathers, the next step now consists of sewing on the neckline strip. I will use a ribbed cuff But you could just as easily use a flat cuff or some fabric from your shirt Before we pin it in place, the strip should be sewn right sides together into a ring I will do this with a normal sewing machine, because then I can nicely lay apart the seam allowances so everything stays nice and flat The seam allowance here is 7mm (0.25 “) For the next step, it is very important that you have transferred all the little notches from the pattern pieces onto the neckline, as well as onto the fabric strip. Because these will help you attach the ring evenly to the neckline! We now take the ring, fold it in the middle, so that the wrong side lies on the inside and secure it. You can either use pins or, like me, these little clips We now begin at the left shoulder seam, and there align it with the seam of our ring And then all further notches on the strip and the neckline should neatly join up After we have now evenly secured the strip, we can sew it on. We will begin 5 cm (or 2“) under the shoulder. During the sewing, the strip lies on top and should be evenly stretched, so the fabric of the neckline lies nice and flat Make sure that the seam allowances at the shoulder seams are layed into the front part so that the shoulder reinforcement, this narrow strip, is visible Just before I reach the end, I fold up my blade so I don’t sever the the start of the seam here This is what the finished round neckline looks like. If the gathering stitches are still visible, like mine are here, then you can simply remove them So, and now you can either view the other neckline versions, or you can skip ahead to the sleeves! Here I have prepared the shirt with the V-neck I have carried over all the notches from the pattern to the neckline and the cuff strip In this case, the cuff has these corners, which will later be aligned with the neckline’s V-point! But before we sew on the neckline strip straight away, I have a tip for you This step isn’t absolutely necessary, but it ensures the shape of the neckline remains nice and sturdy, and that the point, which we will later incise, is nicely supported: This is ironing on bias tape! This narrow band can be store-bought, and I will iron it on to the wrong fabric side at the front neckline, narrowly against the edge Now, while we let everything cool down, we can sew our neckline strip into a ring, right
sides together. In doing so, we sew along the corner with a normal sewing machine and 0,7 cm (or 0.25 “) seam allowance This is what the finished seam looks like now, and when we fold this together, you can already see how the V-point of the neckline will later look. These little corners, the overhanging seam allowances, we can simply cut off Before we pin the strip to the neckline in the next step, we will incise the V-point By 6 mm (or 0.24“), so just about as much as the width of the seam allowance Now I take the V-tip of the strip here and lay it, right sides together, with the open edges here, against the fabric neckline, so that the seam and the little incision join up exactly. And then I pin it in place And then I pull the neckline’s edges apart so that they lie against the edges of the strip, like so. This is what it should look like now, and then I secure it on both sides So, first we will sew this little segment with a normal sewing machine, because the work will be neater than with the overlock Now, with a seam allowance of 0,7cm (or 0.25“) I will initially sew this little segment from here to the V-point, or from here to the tip of the incision we made. At that point I try to end precsiely still in the fabric So now that I’ve arrived at this tip, I lift the presser foot and rotate everything, and then sew the remaining little segment up to the clip So, this is what the V-point looks like now on the wrong fabric side and like this on the right side! Now, we can pin the remaining strip around the neckline, according to the notches and sew it on with the serger machine We will begin this at the V-point The seam width is set to 7mm (or 0.25“) The strip lies on top while I sew, so I can stretch it to ensure the shirt fabric lies nice and flat This is what the finished v-neck looks like Now you can iron it and, if you feel like
it, also top-stitch it once around Now we arrive at the easiest version, which is the turtle neck! But , if you’d prefer, you can also skip ahead to the sleeves Here are my prepared pieces for the shirt with the turtle neck. During preparation I carefully carried over all the notches from the pattern. First of all, we now sew the turtle neck right sides together at the short edges. I am going to do this with the serger machine The seam width is set to 0,7cm This is what the collar currently looks like Now we can fold it, so that the wrong side lies on the inside The seam and also the notches of both sides should lie directly on top of each other Now we can secure the whole thing with few clips, before pinning the collar to the neckline The seam of the collar now land on center of the shirt’s back part, and all other notches join up at with shoulder seam, or the notches at the neckline. Now, I pull the shirt into the turtle neck here This is what that looks like and now we sew the collar on all around, whereby I start here, 5cm (or 2“) away from the shoulder on the shirt’s front part This is what the sewn on turtle neck looks like. Now we will continue with the sleeves! The sleeves are sewn in the same way in all versions. However, if you have chosen the puff sleeves, then you have to first prepare the gathers. I will show you now how to do that! If you just want to see how the sleeves are sewn in, you can skip ahead now The puff sleeve has a gather at the top shaping, as well as at the hem The notches mark the area in which the gathering seams have to be sewn
Which is this area here at the hem and this area at the top shaping I have already prepared these areas here Two top-stitch seams in the largest stitch length, in a distance of 2 mm and 5 mm from the edge Now I tie the two long threads together at one seam end and pull at the threads at the other end until I have achieved the desired gather On my sleeve, this segment should be gathered to about 8cm (or 3.12 “) Now we do exactly the same thing at the top shaping So, we have now done this with both sleeves and you can already see how, through the gathers, the sleeves are shaped into this nice puff! During the next step, the sleeves will be sewn on to the armholes. I will now show you how to do this, using a flat sleeve without gather as an example! At first sight, both sleeves look symmetrical But, with the help of the notches you can make sure you assign them to the right armholes You will find two notches directly next to each other at the top shaping of the sleeve and the front armhole of the shirt Now we fold the shirt apart, and lay it down with the right side on top. sleeve Then we lay the right side down on to the shirt So, and now we are presented with a little challenge: we have to sew two different curves together. But that’s relatively uncomplicated with this soft jersey. Now we pin together both pieces at the notches This seam I will once again sew with the serger machine, whereby the sleeve lies on top This is what the finished seam, or rather the sewn-on sleeve looks like now. And just like this one, we sew on the other sleeve If you have a sleeve with gathers, then make sure that the little folds are evenly distributed while sewing. However, you can also, just to be sure, pre-sew this segment with the sewing machine. With which it’s easier to work neat So, the sewn on puff sleeve looks like this now, and the flat sleeve like this, it doesn’t
matter in which length. And now we will seal the sleeve seam and the side seam on both shirts in one go. In doing so, we lay the shirt right side on right together once more Now I pin, or rather clip, both layers together During which I ensure the armhole seam is folded over in the direction of the sleeve! And then I sew the seam on both sides from up here at the sleeve down to the hem And now our shirts are almost done! We are only missing the hems, on the sleeves as well as at the bottom of the shirt. Here you have two options. Either I simply fold the hem over and sew it with the sewing or serger machine, which I will show in just a moment Or you sew on a cuff, which I will show you after! Before we now sew the hem, we will iron it over on the wrong side by 2cm (or 0.8“) Should the fabric roll in on itself, you can additionally secure the edge of the right side with a few pins The coverlock stitch cover, and tidiesm the edge of the hem on the back side So I can be sure to hit it correctly, I have marked the distance of 1,5cm (or 0.6“) to the left needle with some tape. Now I can guide my seam edge along it This is what the finished hem with the coverseam looks like, and we are now going to hem the sleeves the same way Last but not least I will now show you the hem with cuffs. It works similar to the neckline and here too you can either use a ribbed or a flat cuff, or some of the shirt fabric First of all, the strip for the cuff is sewn together into a ring. Or, coincedentally, the tube has exactly the right circumference and you don’t have to sew it! The ring will now be folded down the middle wrong sides together and pinned to the hem So the longer area of the shirt hem is evenly distributed along the shorter area of the cuff, I am going to make some marks. One at the point where the cuff should meet the side seam and another where it should meet the front, and the back, center of the shirt If your cuff ring has one or two seams, these should always meet the side seams of the shirt I can now pin it in place there, on the left and the right side. These bits should then meet the two notches I made on the front and back part of the shirt Now I pin the ring on to the hem right sides together The cuff will now lie on top while we sew and will be stretched to the length of the shirt
Just before I reach the beginning of the seam again, I fold up the blade, to ensure I don’t sever the seam This is what the finished hem looks like now, and exactly like this I am now going to do the sleeves Here the the cuff seam meets the side seam and this spot on the opposite joins up with the middle of the sleeve, or here with the middle of the gather The cuff lies on top again and this time and I have turned the shirt wrong side out, so that it is easier to sew here at this little opening So, I’m going to check now that the gather is nice and even So this shirt is finished now! And whether you have used wide cuffs, narrow or short sleeves, it always works the same way! In this video tutorial I have now shown you several version of the shirt, with varying necklines, sleeves, and hems. And with the Pattydoo Designer you can easily put together your own favorite! Well then, I hope you had fun sewing with me, and if you’re looking for more tips and tricks, for example on topic of jersey, then just check out my website Pattydoo! Bye, and see you soon!