hi to all guys and welcome back to Fabrizio Teghesi today’s video is about a topic for which you have really flooded me with messages in the last 5 – 6 weeks, I’m talking about the world of KYOSHO rtr, so… I decided to enter this topic starting from the explosion sector and more precisely starting from her! This machine will be completely removed from me to understand what the differences with my excellent knowledge of mp9 TKI 4 kit then race I used to really for so many years and so I want to explore fully all the features of this model code prejudice to all guys today even I even have gloves … Why? because we have reached the longest and most difficult, but at the same time most important, point of the whole car, which is the front end. In the front there is a lot more material than the rear and obviously the central one, so there is the whole steering system, there is the steering link apparatus , with the Ackermann plate there is the servo saver , in short, it is really more complicated, so arm yourself with patience and let’s start; by the way, do you see? I have a virtual cameraman who follows all my movements, Ma *** na a show, a show guys! look that follows all my movements, if I go down he goes down if I get up he gets up … fabulous, fabulous! But let’s start, it’s no longer time to joke so let’s free the shock absorbers that will be the subject of a separate video Nothing, here we need the counter screwdriver… Unscrew from below and then…. Then something happened that shouldn’t happen or rather if the car is mounted well it shouldn’t happen that is practically this screw turns with the whole column loosening the one below … In reality I block, (you will see, then when I reassemble) the screws underneath with the brake strong fillets, and I put these on top with the light fillet lock so that practically when I unscrew from up here it is impossible for it to unscrew from below but now it has happened, so we will disassemble it so that then we will see here we are ready with the front end finally removed , then let’s start by saying some optional instead of these exactly as in the rear there are the suspension pins that close with the grain in the upper part, instead of threading the first piece of the arm which in my opinion the plates are much more advantageous, therefore both this, this, and this one are all the same identical to the TKI4 kit

but have no milling while the normal plates of the machine compete tion have the mills inside the plate and therefore lightening; the bumper is the same here we will immediately make the first modification, as you can see in the bumper there is a hole that is closed by this life that goes to thread on this piece of plastic, then I do not use this screw and not only go to close the hole on the bumper, how? I’ll show you in a very short … why? because here when you go to jump if you land on your face, it happens a lot, sometimes this hole fills up entirely with earth and before being able (in the case of maintenance) to get to the vine you have to dig a lot and moreover it is difficult to get to remove the earth from inside the hollow of the screw, whether it is a cross or a hexagonal one, so since the bumper can be read on the screws underneath also and I assure you that they are enough because with the bumper you go to give the blows there is no force it to take the bumper in the opposite direction and tear it out of the car, because of course there are the arms, there is the cell, there are 1000 things for which the bumper cannot be torn. So I guarantee you 101% that it resists, and since there is a technical time that must dry up, we go to close it immediately, how are we going to close it? with black paste (black paste 5940) LOCTITE the best in the globe… let’s go aim, you see? the pipe directly into the hole, and we look when it comes out from the opposite side, that is quite trivial the situation, here you see that it came out? that’s it you see? they work perfect … it starts drying here and you no longer have the problem of the vine, to buy the black pasta and all the options that I will mention during this video there are all the links in the description for the various insights and to understand what it is . So let’s go and disassemble that’s it all disassembled then let’s go step by step, these pins which are those of the arms can be replaced with the HD hard pins so they were made in the “anniversary” and in the TKI4, after a certain period of time, and practically they are harder they will bend less so now we go to open the differential so we put it to drain the oil, and then, in the meantime, we will work on the rest of the car that we have stuff to do Paper tear Usual glue in here, but this one came out better than that of the rear so, let’s dismantle everything in

one cruise as usual… ok! another tear of paper, bearings, oil for Kyosho bearings Let’s take another pass … I don’t know if it’s because I have gloves, but it seems to me that they flow a little ok at this point instead of drying them we leave them here to purge themselves, let’s see with this system if it works, ok let’s start with the servo saver, then this ring nut is (similar) similar to the TKI3 servo saver, I don’t think I know the spring because on the TKI3 servo saver it was golden. So I already felt this spring while I was taking the car apart, it is very soft! What premises are there to do? The more you tighten this spring, the more the servos will be reactive and directional, because everything you give as a command from the radio will be taken, without distortion, therefore without variations from the wheels, it comes from the steering system so let’s say that if the car drives it a good one , or in any case someone who knows how to drive, even “normal” this saves servant or tightens practically everything, or fails to use it, while in the case of those who start it is a panacea for 2 reasons, so it is a very positive thing for 2 reasons: 1st reason; because the car with the soft servo saver is much easier to drive, less intuitive from certain points of view, because sometimes even just the force of speed with which you arrive in the curve could deceive you, so maybe then you get very strong to the end on the straight, turn all the steering and the car does not turn then as it slows down it begins to turn until practically the servo saver returns to position and throws the car into it, in reality my advice is to start with this because if you put a racing one you can’t drive it and give it a couple of turns of thread to screw … point when you learn to drive don’t go and tighten this, because if you tighten this, the servo saver effect is canceled, so you get at the level of drives an excellent result because the machine is perfectly directional on your commands but in reality the servo saver no longer exists, So as the word itself says the servo is not saved and if rvo is not saved, it breaks! And if the servant breaks down, you have to buy a servant…. So I advise, learn with this, give it a 1 and a half – 2 turns, and then at the appropriate time buy without throwing this away the

servo saver of the race car and buy the servo saver MP10 that has the hex on it, basically so this is the first premise, now it goes from tightening 1 turn and a half Guys…. just learned that this servant saver is locked! In other words, I practically do not know if they put a particular type of thread locker on it, but in practice it does not move from this position, not even taking it with the pliers, because it almost turns in the underlying part… so… Use it like this without tightening 1 and a half laps, also because there are no alternatives … and then you will replace it directly with that of the race car, when you learn to drive. Another difference with the race kit machine are these bushings, as you can see here there are the bushings instead in the race car there are the bearings. In reality basically if they are slightly greased with a little graphite there shouldn’t be any problems even with the bushings, but know that there are bearings and clearly at that point I would go to mount them when you take the race servo saver, the ackermann plate it is the same as the TKI3 and the TKI4, but there is a fundamental difference, there are no cutouts that is the 45 ° tapering here and here and you will tell me, what is the 45 ° tapering for? The 45 ° taper is used when you have the whole system assembled (I want to simulate the fact that it is assembled) when you have the whole system assembled, while as you can see below it can slide because the sphere is tapered and this is the same sphere as the competition car , when it goes up it “hits” you see the uni-ball hits? and goes to remove him? so what’s the advice here? Simple, take a dremel and place it to taper the plate and now we do it! ok perfect as you can see from above you can not see anything so let’s say you will not ruin the aesthetics of the car and nothing, you will earn uniball breaks, because clearly, when it goes to strain the suspension it goes over stroke and clearly goes to twist up here and above all if it does not break you will earn the same in the bumpy because the car can have more over travel, the arm would get there but the steering rod does not . At this point unfortunately, I say, because here it would have been since the servo saver is very soft, really soft, it would have been the case to tighten at least 1 turn, 1 turn and a half, but on the other hand it is so and so let’s give it up. our savior servant. Know that even on this servo saver you may want to mount the TKI3 plate and you may want to also mount the TKI4 and MP10 plate, the MP10 one It has an extra adjustment hole, so in any case we take the servo saver for good, the options I have told you all , and let’s clean up here ok let’s examine this one here you have to hear if there is a thread of play in this case there is, so okay, these bearings do not even stretch them because they really slide by themselves, here you have directly the case D therefore practically optional, let’s say functional there is practically

nothing and so here it is okay, the only thing is that clearly the cup and the dog bone can be replaced with the cardan. So with the joint here and the dog bone on the opposite side , at this point this is done the cap is this, these are the last cells put on the market by Kyosho, so in practice you have no problem with this part, here we go now to take this part in hand where here is the only and real weak point of the machine which are these … These are a weak point that sensational because these are made from fusion of zamak and if you hit they break, so what do you have to do do you? you have to turn around until they break, and when they break you have the choice to buy these back, but you never take them to the race because you just need to lean on and they really break … This is really a very weak point of this machine or go and buy the spindles of the TKI3 which are IF419 or those of the MP10, in case of the spindles of the mp 10 they are shorter in short, they have a slightly different shape and you will have to change the length of these tie rods here, for the rest the arms are the C- HUB are made of plastic, if you want you could mount them in ergal but I repeat there is no need C-HUB in ergal exist: from 13 °, from 16 ° from 17,5 ° and from 19 ° all the C-HUB with the eccentrics below are adjustable by 1 ° less and 1 ° more than what is declared by the C-HUB, here we have to check the bearings if they come out of these spindles , because I have never disassembled them and I do not know, they will surely come out , I want to understand how hard but…. This is hard because they put the fillet locker on it like the back but they come out easily, I didn’t expect it! that’s it, it was really hard … I repeat I do n’t understand why they put all the threadlocker in the world in it, which is not needed, however ok bearing treatment, these homokinetics are not the competition ones, so, bring them to the bottom, they have incredible stems here, while the racing ones are much finer and this is silvered in the final part … Well, take them to the bottom and once you have to replace them replace them with those of the competition car, these do not have any kind of problem, this plate is identical to the competition plate, only that they are all countersunk screws in that competition, I also said this some previous video you could leave it so that it has no problem or you can countersink it by simply buying a countersink, there are no problems, while the what really has to be replaced in an almost obligatory way is this, these pins down here I cannot bear them … In the competition car there is a smooth pin and a thread appears on the opposite side and practically you can put

the nut on it, honestly I would change them almost immediately, practically, however, you see, I would change them immediately, that is, in my opinion these really bend at sight but let’s go on another option important is this plate, this standard is made of plastic, know that you can put it in ergal, you have to be careful because there are two types, one that where it says “H” on this side, which raises the support, but to assemble this you also need this “H” and another instead that is what you need … I repeat, look at the links in the description and you will see that you will not have any problem in choosing, here normal things would have to be disassembled queti, put the thread locker back on safely and reassemble them, but I don’t do it, because the less they touch, the better, everything flows perfectly clearly the ball must be straight to see if it slides, because if it tilts even a little clearly does not flow but that’s fine AH! I FITTED IT IN THE OPPOSITE… BRAVO TUNA RIO MARE ………. Perfect, everything flows, here everything flows perfect, clearly it will not flow here, but as I said also in the video of the rear we leave it to it, because this is a car dedicated to those who have to go through kM beating … And above all, not knowing how to drive yet to the end, even if it flows little we leave it so that there are no problems, at this point we go to close our differential that we have completed the draining of everything we go to close and differential, the glasses are cleaned (from nothing ) because they don’t put fat on it…. serious mistake, because you consume them first … Clearly, even the small glasses can be replaced with competition ones which, as I repeat, weigh half, are flat, and have a hole … so let’s start; fat Kyosho, as mentioned in the videos you will find all the links in the description but here you are already good, I do not tell you anything more, if you have watched the videos in order (who is clearly seeing this first, I invite you to go and see the video respectively of the rear and center it in chronological order have been made as well, first the rear then the middle and then this) I tried to clean up all the glue that they put and go immediately to assemble, in this case as in the case of the central (not as we did for the rear train) to have the best performing machine already at the beginning we will install our second cruise, so you will have to take a gear kit, stuff that costs very little I think it costs less than 10 euros, the gear kits and you have to go and insert the second one with a perfect cruise , at this point we put two bearings on the o-ring, the first plug,

which I remind you must be inserted from the hole, the first engagement the grain here you are attentive you simply make the shape of the grain disappear from the crate and do not screw too much, otherwise the grain when screwing touches this gear and stops, ok let’s start adding the oil I put 7.000 FTTech, exactly like in the central, I have to put the first cruise that we will put on the opposite side of the grain that’s it, let’s put the cruise with the burglary to house the other in a vertical position, and let’s put the new cruise we have created you have seen? this time I forgot to put a little grease before the washer and rightly we lose the washers while we wait for the air to come out, let’s go to complete the other part let’s remember to put it perpendicular to one of the verses with the holes, rightly here is all the dirty gear of that glue they used to close it, let’s try to eliminate the excess glue ok let’s try to insert the gear and see how much oil is missing, in this case very little is missing, then overcome by one millimeter the crosses and you will be alright … ok place the pin perpendicular with the four holes close the crown and let’s screw it ok, let’s dry… and this is ready to reassemble, perfect! Remember the (left) side you see with our treatment how it flows, you close the cell with

the screws on top and much faster than expected we are already assembling, we are already assembling, because some things we could not do them like for example the saver, but I repeat if you are at the beginning, if you have never owned a toy car, do not know or have good control of what you are doing, leave it like this… another thing that you can get because it will allow you to make a lot of modifications on the car is the kit of the eccentrics, the kit of the eccentrics also gives you the other bushings for the upper front part and gives you the other rear convergences, this is one thing what a good to have, plus you have all those there are mounted on the car as a spare ok perfect at this point you can already reassemble the arms, you can reassemble the arms with the bearings and the homokinetic, then insert the homokinetic in the seat, insert the bearing, which acts as a guide to put it straight without forcing it to insert, put also the top, that you see it, so you are sure of how it is entering, once you have inserted the external one you can press with the internal one to make sure you have put everything in line, put the driver and complete it on the table at this point you can reinsert it clearly everything will be very hard because there is the usual thread lock… ok let’s tighten, ok, here it takes very little, check if the oil has started to flow, look here! Incredible !! we must put this too, do not insert it centered with the one in front and once inside press on the table and crush, put the driver upside down and go and press them all, then the pin is ok all ready to assemble the group again so now I add the washer, very important, these are very thick washers, here as standard on the kit machine we use them exactly half the thickness, these are 1mm us, we use them ground by 0.5mm that is practically they already exist on the market, so when you fold them (because these have the problem especially in front that they bend) so when you fold these, you will go to put those of the race car, so do not go to the hardware store to buy the washers or, if you go there, buy them 0.5mm thick, ok let’s go to assemble the plate in front, screws in front, and even here remember do not tighten! Bring the screws to rest and check the longitudinal play of the arms, now I’ll show you … (as we did in the rear) then bring them to approach, as the angles set by Kyosho are already good, perfect … you see that there is play? on the right

we can remove a little, on the left we can give a little, ok! try to make them as identical as possible, if you can make them identical even better, go and insert the arm with the forks on this side too, plate, screws, ok! you can also tighten these tightly because you see that there is a lot of play, perfect! The anti-roll bars… Tighten these so that when the machine is fully assembled you can adjust them, ok! At this point we can put the bumper (which in the meantime is annoyed) simply interlocking like this, and mount our servo saver so here we have removed the screw, on the contrary I recommend what they do to use the rear hole, so not the hole central, but the rear hole! ok this plate I advise you to mount it when the front is already above the frame, fixed, so when you tighten under the end of everything, mount this plate! so that it takes correct games, let’s see if it flows, but it flows for sure, ok we with the front end have finished early, because unfortunately the servo saver cannot be tightened, this is a serious lack as far as I am concerned, but I repeat those who start racing at this moment do not absolutely need all this, but clearly the servo saver has a defined duration, and in any case it is around 8 months, time that you learn to drive, and then you will replace it, so ready also with the front end and see you at the next video bye!

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