we’ve had a lot of questions as to whether white new is a good application on gel coat the answer that question is yes it’s a great application it can take an old faded gel coat make it look like brand new and on the flip side it can take a boat that’s in good shape and lower the time that you have to spend maintaining that boat as in washing it if you’re a fisherman and you have fish blood to deal with or you just like to party on your boat when you come back in a lot of times you’re tired you don’t want to spend a lot of time washing it down and that can be a two or three hour proposition if you’re really really diligent about keeping your boat clean what white will allow you to do is cut that time by two-thirds the reason when it’s able to do that is because it addresses the number one problem with gel coat and that’s porosity even though it’s a fiberglass boat and it floats on water it actually absorbs water and it will absorb dirt as well it absorbs suntan oil fish blood anything that comes into contact with it insists for any length of time it has any kind of coloration to it will actually leave a stain and gel coat because the pores actually suck that liquid in and what white D does is actually seal those pores and essentially makes gel coat non-porous the reason you see a boat like this with bottom paint you can see the blue bottom paint runs along the bottom of this boat if a boat sits in the water long enough it’ll actually absorb enough moisture through the gel coat to actually blister so that’s why bottom paint is applied to these boats this guy here obviously he pulls his boat every time he fishes so he doesn’t want the bottom paint the bottom paint actually you know it adds weight to the boat it’ll actually slow it down in the water but if you’re going to keep your wha your boat in the water for prolonged periods you’ve got to have it because again gel coats very very porous and what we’re going to do is we’re going to take you through some prep procedures one of the things that’s made white new kind of revolutionary to the boating industry is that we’re doing away with all the sanding and all the compounding and all the buffing that has to take place to remove that dead material before you do any waxing we actually use a chemical process to strip off the dead layers of oxidation we can also remove the rust stains from the transom that you see back here ray civ sanding procedure to remove this we actually have an acid that’s going to get that out and prep the bottom of the boat so what we’re going to attempt to do is take you through the prep from the top down and like I said we’re going to try to give you a good basis of information to begin thinking about doing your boat but I would suggest that if you’re inclined to do it follow the procedures watch this video several times and get the procedure down in your head before you start and then when you get to the coating stage I would recommend doing a very small portion first that way if you don’t get the results you want you can correct it don’t don’t jump on board your boat and just go coating and then get halfway through it realize who I did something wrong because it makes it exceedingly difficult to return to your starting point if you cut it half the day you know our procedure for removing whitening once it’s dried is wet sanding first thing we want to cover is some basic tools that you’re going to need before you start a lot of the acids and cleaners that we spoke of to begin with that can be damaging to your skin you want to protect your eyes we use nitrile gloves for our hands when we’re prepping the boat this is going to protect your skin from these chemicals that we use and below the things you’re going to need is a couple of nice soft nylon brushes you can attach those two wands if you want to or you can actually literally just handhold this and it’s going to allow you to get into all the nooks and crannies where the dirts hiding will show you you know a lot of the doorways and the jams that surround the you know the wooden wells and the bait wells you’re going to need to be able to get in there and really scrub these are softer bristles they’re not super super hard they’re kind of an exploded nylon that way they’re not going to do any undue scratching again the chemical is going to do most of the work so what this does is just agitate the surface and work that stuff out so you don’t need a super aggressive brush for these chemicals the next thing you’re going to need is a way to apply the chemicals we use a garden sprayer and this product here is an alkaline base cleaner that we use for most of the gelcoat all of the grip the non-skid inside you can use it on the upholstery and we use it on the outer hull and what it does is it actually chemically strips the oxidation out of the gel coat again we’re not going to be doing the traditional wash sand buff and seal this is actually a two-step process and also the beauty of it again is its fares your gel coat it’s it’s not an abrasive process what we’re trying we’re trying to attempt to get this but completely clean without doing any abrasive work on it at all on the garden sprayer will hold about two gallons of chemical it just is a more efficient way of getting the chemical on the boat if you’re sitting there with a squirt bottle on something as big as this you’re just

going to work yourself to death trying to get product down and if you’re working in the Sun it’s going to evaporate before you can get any kind of sizable area prep so so what is this chemical and okay this is a this is a chemical made by Zep manufacturing it’s called Big Z if you go online onto zet products for zeb calm you can find that chemical but it’s basically it’s formulated for cleaning truck fleets and the reason it works on boats is the cab forward portion of most trucks is a gel k finish its fiberglass tilt-away front end as a gel k finish very porous just like a boat and this is formulated to bring that ingrained dirt the diesel soot and all the other environmental stuff that truck trailer runs into on the road out of the finish and a lot of the truck stops just use this as a cleaner we use it for the boats again the same reason the constructions are seen now the other the other situation that we use a chemical for if you look at the back transom of this boat you can see some rust stains again this is part of the porous nature of fiberglass their minerals in the water systems more so in the salt water systems than freshwater but you’re going to get a certain amount of this mineralization that occurs in the gel coat what the 4x is is actually a hydrochloric acid base cleaner again this is made by Zep and it’s called a utility cleaner normally we’ll spray this with the same type of sprayer but what it’ll do is it will actually go and it’s going to convert all of that rust lift it out of the finish and basically just convert it to a – it’s like a slime that we can just wash right off some other things you’re going to need in your prep once everything is scrubbed down to your satisfaction we have to make sure that the boat is completely dry before we apply the whitening and we do that with a lot of these we use a leaf blower actually we’ll start from the top anywhere on the boat that you have anywhere that there’s something bolted onto the boat whether the handrail or a tie-down cleat this rub rail here they trap water I mean behind every bowl behind every nut anywhere there is an interface between a pole and a fiberglass surface water is going to accumulate you got to drive all of that water out of the boat before you begin coating that’s really probably the most have to be patient when you’re doing that step you’ll go around the basin has three or four times and if you have a luxury of time you can do it on a hot date leave it outside let the Sun do some work for you but still come back with your least lower draw everything off the only other things that you need besides that is uh if you’re glad you did we do carry acetone with us sometimes people have older stickers on their boats you know from depending on where you live might have an inspection sticker or just a license sticker if you want that off now is the time to do it you don’t want to seal it over the white moon this will remove residues from the glue all right for this boat we’re doing today this is a 26 foot regulator it’s a bow rider it’s a pretty wide beany boat we’re anticipating we’re going to use between 20 and 30 ounces of white new generally what we found in most of our applications is we use about an ounce of foot in that very brick about an ounce foot per boat it can vary if it’s a new boat that’s in really good shape you might use less because the material is going to be less thirsty if it’s an older boat let’s say it’s a 10 or 12 year old boat that really been left down the elements it’s not at greatest shape is this one you may use a little more because it’s going to drink more in when you’re prepping a boat you just want to make sure you work in sections you want to break it down systematically we’re starting at the very top here all the dirt travels down so you want to work from the top down what probably you will see get something Towers will actually work the underside of that Tower and it will literally work their way back from the bow we tilted this up so the water is going to run out the back to the scuppers be fast enough the dirt will get sucked right back into the surface you don’t want to try to do a really really big area and come back and rinse it because depending on the porosity in the gel coat your stain can just be reabsorbed back into the white new works really well for your aluminum and stainless what Rick’s doing right now is actually prepping it prior to coating what we’re using is a 3m product it’s called tranzec it’s a 3000 grit paper all he’s doing is basically wet sanding it to get the scale and salt residue off what we’re trying to do Nick is just work this inside section so we can get up here but we’re essentially going to work from the front of it back hold it on see if you want to try to get every stain out you can you want to get this

is perfect as you can possibly get it here in your prep because once you seal it the seal forever and all you’re telling your compartments you want to take the time and scrub down these jams and actually even scrub the underside of the doors the reason you want to do it is number one if you coat that it’s just going to be so easy to keep clean so go ahead do it now to reabsorb this thing from Zoo is just basically work their way out of this from the bow to the stern again we’ve got it tilted so that most of the walkers could run out of the scupper holes and what we’re trying to do is push all the dirt back as we go you’re gonna try to come back up here the next time we come up is just a drive with 19 Bandar sock feet that we don’t bring the dirt back in you have to get out of the bed for something take your shoes off up here have another pair of shoes down there that you walk around on the ground in then when you get back you’ve got a clean pair here because it’s a drag dirt back in you get cleaned again so just kind of got to think about what you’re doing and we’re making work as easy as possible if you climb and on health we go to a dirty thing ship is going to be one of the things we recommend is once you think you’re clean once you think you’re ready to go and got all your prep work done walk back out of your work again with some fresh eyes take a look at all the nooks and crannies make sure it’s completely clean and address it now rather than later because it is more or less wet but if you let it dry completely out and you realize wow I’ve got to do some more intensive cleaning it’s going to extend the you know the time that you spend on the job the other thing is just you know again we’re you got to exercise patience when you’re doing this prep we’re out here on a pretty cold day and it’s uncomfortable working conditions with you can’t get you vents and you can’t rush anything so you know if the conditions don’t suit you put your stuff away and wait for a better time again the key is just don’t be rushed when you’re doing this prep it to everything and it’s really going to determine how the job comes out sometimes you get these be scuffs and rough rust marks that you know you have a hard time scrubbing out with a brush or your chemical just won’t take care of all you got to do is just take your 3000 grit get it nice and wet and just meticulously scrub all the areas of concern off we’re completing the final rinse up there what Rick’s doing is just making sure the last little bits of debris or push to the back I’m going to start transom we’ve got our acid we’re going to go ahead and pre soaked this we’re going to do is have a can to break down those large stains that he’s gotten from the seawater let’s prep this as we did the other part it may take a few minutes for the ass work on these things we’ll come back in about 5 minutes and see how that washes off let’s go ahead and give it a good preset and at this point too if you got like a Whitehall boat it has these stains all over it before you start even scrubbing the upper part of the hull pre-soak it with this ass it has a good time you may be two or three applications want to get it maverick ten minutes it just the way more efficient way of removing that stain has posed to Sandy halogen off if your whole point and you got to get the team to get the staining out of it the pink is the acid when you get to your rinsing step you want to really make sure that you thoroughly rinse that product off the dough if you don’t it will actually react to white new the way you know it’s reacting is it start to smoke actually the chemical reaction takes place between the two and little tendrils of smoke to start coming up off the surface of the boat if you see that stop come back out wash your baby down with soap and water rinse it again as you can see we can’t reiterate enough it speed is of the essence when you’re doing this particularly if it’s a chunky boat see what I’m doing is I’m actually spraying it down Rick’s coming behind me scrubbing it into the surface and then we’re going to very quickly rinse the reason we’re doing that is we want to dislodge all the dead material all the oxidized gel tech and get it on the ground before has a chance to be reabsorbed I’m actually

going to not complete this whole side the acid can just color the aluminum happy little heard it but as far as cosmetics go just doesn’t look good all of our preliminary prepping we still have a little hand standing to do a little touch-up here and there but what we want it to show down the side of the boat this is what you want to see before you go and coat with white new you want to see a little bit of reflectivity in the hole and the other visual is you want to be able to take your hand and rub down that hole if you come back with any dead material that means you still need to do some cleaning because again all that oxidation is going to interfere with the final result of white nude if you don’t get it all off but as you can see here we’ve got a pretty good reflectivity we have no dead material so that tells us this is ready to go now we’re going to do now is we’re just going to go around to a little handwork bricks knocking some scuffs off the hole I’m going to go topside and I’m going to look for you know the little areas that we need to touch up because now after you’ve washed it you’ve got to go back and look for heel marks any scratches that you want to remove now’s the time to do it and then we’re going to walk around the boat one more time make sure we’re completely happy with the way it’s prepped and then we’ll start coating we’re going we’re going back inside for a breath and as we spoke of earlier you don’t want to drag all the dirt from the surrounding ground back into the boat so I actually brought a second pair of shoes that are plain just giving them a final wipe down and then we’re going to lay a towel down in here so you can actually step on that and keep these shoes in the boat as you start to work inside if you have to come out have your dirty shoes on the ground change into those if you need to walk around but I can’t stress enough the importance of having clean deck shoes at this point another thing I wanna stress these are nitrile gloves we’re still handwork that’s got to be done in here always work with gloves on because you don’t want to introduce any skin oil to the surface it’s actually again right now it’s a very porous material so when you touch here all the oils are present on your skin are going to get absorbed into the gym great adhesion and you actually base these physical operations so keep these own it habit to get into all I’m going to do now is I’m going to take this piece of 3,000 to the front we’re going again works for front to the back these scratches that I can sand off or any dirty spots that we might have left behind in the prep as I get to the end here with this exit off like we did when running it and then the next step will go to Kennedy what we have here we’ve thoroughly washed the hall and we have stuffs scratches little tiny areas that you can’t code over so what you want to do if you want to take your 3,000 grit a little bit of you know soap solution or whatever and just go ahead and try to sand these areas off though 99% of the time if they’re not gouged they’ll come off but if you coat over him you won’t be able to get those stains out you always want to make sure that you get them all out and then just take your microfiber towel why Petrak good to go now whole area that had those scratches and transfer marks on are now gone spray a little bit on there might have to pull a level grease into it sometimes three thousand grits not the most aggressive sandpaper in the world but you can code over 3,000 grit scratches along these edges there’s like stuff come in here you can see it just where the tie-down ropes are great let the stuff behind now is when you want to get it off and all it takes is just a little over 3,000 okay sometimes after you’ve washed the boat there’ll be a little bit of residue left on it and all we do is just take some some glass cleaner doesn’t matter what kind Windex or whatever and this kind of spray all the areas down that you’re going to you’re going to code you’ve got to have a perfectly clean surface before you apply the what and that’s what I’m doing with the glass cleaner is just making sure that we’re just nice and clean no streaks so we do go to coat we don’t have any issues stopping to do now is we have to get the boat completely dry before we can code can’t have any water running off any surface messed up what we’re going to do is we have an electric blower we want to use an electrical because you can use a gas one those two-stroke engines mint oil if you give oil exhaust Alana on the gelcoat the wife name won’t adhere to it correct so we have an electric power one and what I’m going to do is I’m going to

blow out every nook and cranny on this globe it’s going to take me a little while but in the end it’ll be definitely worth it so you first thing you want to take one word again just like to grab at the road really systematically I’ll try to you know jump one side to the other you see I’m kind of doing this in a linear fashion try to get continuous if you can it’s going to flow out there start on the bag see let’s be so it has a chance to Wow get it or go super super fast you’re coding when you get into the big stage you’re done applying there’s another thing as you apply a product to your AG do it over another axial drip onto the boat and set your bottle down correct because then there can be product on the outside of the bottle you want to sit down a former ring place engine operating code little things like that help keep the job neat make your life a little easier application and we you know we’ve gone through crepin done a real thorough clean this has got some mold and mildew stains that aren’t going to come out but if you’ve got a new boat or you just want to protect yours and stop the aging process just get a good clean on it stuff just like on the cars it works great as far as protecting the ional and also again it renders it 9 ports so somebody sits here and they’ve slathered on you know a greasy sunscreen it won’t stain the line which typically you’ll most of the stains that you encounter on this sweat it sunscreen anymore see my stop in part point is a corner you want that you want to break this up and you’re doing a center console like this from corner to corner to corner don’t overlap a corner try to cover too much at one time you can see I’m getting about three passes and then I want to re-wet a rag won’t let this rag dry out on you sure that it’s got plenty of product as you these uh areas like this I’m going to get a big pretty heavy UV load see they’re going to be thirsty get them going around the grommets first tickle busy areas and then make a full pass across the seizure I can make a break right here with Israel is it’s visually it’s a good breaking point I’ll come back and get the front of that box what you use your brush for you know these really really busy areas made it in so you get a nice application what super hired again it’s all about working angles you want to you know when you code in an area especially something particularly as busy as this is you want to get download you look at a lot of different angles make sure that all right we’re out only thing we didn’t do in here was non-skid decay at the customer’s request we didn’t even non-skid you can one thing about non-skid is if you’re barefooted and it’s wet it’s a slip hazard if you wear the excuse this is seem to be too much of a problem but we always leave it up to the customers whether they want it done or not so if you’re doing it for a commercial reason you might want to enquire with your customer let them know the pros and cons of coating non-skid let them make the decision that way you’re not going to assume any liability for anything that might happen someone if they get on here in fall something that we’re pretty much done we’re going to walk out here and fine-tune the whole one last time and then code that the biggest flat service on the bay it’s got to be the most perfect so we’ve done all their prep

we’ve done all our sanding and we’re getting ready to code but before you cut just when you think you’re ready to code take one last walk around it what we’re doing is we’re looking for a little bitty spray water we’re going to double check for any scuffs any stains that might need a little bit more sanding and then a few walk around it if you’re working with another person you think it’s right have them walking around it and double check it and then cope because once you get going on this you can’t stop correct something it’s just it’s too big and expansive and it’s got to be dead nuts perfect so you can’t stop halfway through so you know take your time make sure you’re completely satisfied with a condition of the whole pond light again you want your rag supersaturated almost to the point where it’s going to drip what we’re going to hear is I’m going to be Rick sacra lab just start right come on make sure you always overlap these by a couple inches for that Oh you you

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