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– Hey guys In this video, I wanna help you figure out which Fuji Prime lenses are gonna work best for you (slow hip hop music) ♪ Yeah, yeah ♪ This is a very daunting task, to try to help you find the right FUJI lens and it’s important to break it down as much as possible So in this video, we will only be talking about FUJI Prime lenses If you’re not sure whether to make your first lens purchase a Prime or a Zoom, maybe bookmark this video and go check out my video about Primes versus Zooms first – I’ve avoided making this specific lens guide video for a long time, but I get multiple questions daily asking some form of this single question Honestly, I feel bad, constantly telling everyone the same answer And that’s that no one can answer that for you You’ve gotta put in the legwork yourself That’s a dissatisfying answer for everyone, including me, but the difficult thing here, is that for me to adequately be able to give you advice, I’d have to spend some real quality time with you and learn what you shoot, when you shoot, where you shoot it, what you plan to do with things, the photos after you shoot them and what your budget is And even then, my advice still might be a bit of a crap shoot I’m just a dude who likes to take photos, same as you So while I can’t tell you what lens to buy, I do feel very confident that I can help make the decision making process a little easier on you So let’s get to work Before we dive into the actual lenses though, there are eight things that you need to have straight in your head first First and foremost is, what focal length that’s gonna work for you If you don’t know, that’s okay I’m gonna go through all that Second, what is your budget, or how price sensitive are you? Third, how much does weight and size of lens, matter to you? Fourth, is how important shallow depth of field is to you and for the sake of just simplicity, I’m also gonna group bouquet quality into that question, though, I realize they are different things The fifth consideration, is low light capability Sixth, how important sharpness is for you Seventh, how much does weather resistance matter? And eighth, is how important is details? Getting up really close to your subject, that close focus distance So let’s unpack those subjects As we do so, I’m going to ask you to rate each theme or topic, how important of a factor each one is for you There’s lots of factors that go into lens selections, but these eight are probably the most important in my mind, especially to younger photographers Unfortunately though, some people just go off of which lens they can get a good deal on, or what looks interesting Your first real lens purchase, is often based on emotion Tabulating some sort of scores, will help your decision be less emotional and will probably serve you best, in the long run I am gonna group this video into two parts though The first part, again, will help you tabulate a nonemotional answer To really help you figure out what you need the most The second half of this video, I will be going quickly through all of the FUJI lenses to give you their most interesting characteristics For those on a computer, or other device, you’re welcome to use the nifty calculator, I’ve coded up for you Because I love you You’ll find that calculator on our website, at denaeandandrew.com/lenses Denae has a D-E-N, not D-A-N So the first thing we’ll do is, we’ll rate how important each of those factors are We’ll start with how important focal lengths are to you For me, it’s the most important factor, because I know what I like to shoot and that’s more important to me, to photograph the world, framed the way I see it, that’s more important than if the shot is perfectly sharp, or that I have a weather sealed lens, for example So the first thing you’ll wanna do is, to figure out which category of focal length you’re gonna want Wide, mid, or tele And we aren’t gonna go more granular than that, at this point, because, I’m assuming many of you are newer photographers and you’re not exactly sure But many of you may not really care, or you may not know what your favorite focal length is Really, you just want a decent lens that has amazing image quality and through experience, you’ll find out if you want something wide, narrow, or something in between And you just need a place to start So for you folks, you might put a one or a two in each of these fields, for the calculator But to help you out, let’s break down what we mean by wide, mid or tele Let’s do a little bit of a mental exercise Let’s imagine you’re in your living room, relaxing on the couch, halfway listening to that very un-interesting YouTube guy, drone on and on about lenses and you notice your dog staring at you, with its leash in its mouth, begging you to take it out and do something interesting with your life and with his life The moment strikes you as adorable, so you of course, reach to your trusty FUJI device, which you always have at your side Man’s second best friend You raise that view finder to your eye and press that shutter What do you see? Do you see this? Or maybe, do you see something more like this? Or perhaps, it’s something in between, like this

I’m willing to bet that you had more of an emotional reaction to one of these photos, than the other two So, keep that in mind So now you’re out on your walk, feeling much better about your life, now that you’ve got out of that boring room, listening to that boring YouTuber You’re enjoying some sunlight and fresh air and you spot a mildly interesting scene Once again, you raise your trusty FUJI device up to your eye and behold the scene before you What do you see? Do you see this? Or maybe something more like this? Or again, is it something in between? And if you get a little bit closer and try to capture a bit of detail, what do you see then? Is it this? Or perhaps it’s this Or again, maybe it’s something in between So if you like that wider end, the lens that you were liking, is this guy, the 16 millimeter 2.8 lens This lens gives you a wide field of view You’ll get more stuff in the shot But everything sort of distorts out a bit It’s not fish eye, exactly, but you will notice things bending around your subject, just a bit This lens will serve you well in really tight places, which is why it’s my favorite focal length for indoor documentary photography You’ll also tend to get less out of focus background blur with a lens like this And to get everything in frame just right, you’ll tend to get closer to your subjects and that makes it a bit more awkward in street photograph settings, where you have to get uncomfortably close, in some cases to people to get the subject framed large enough in the frame, to be interesting As a stark contrast, on the narrow side of things, we’ve got ourselves the 90 millimeter F2 lens You’ll see that the subjects with this lens are more compressed, more squared up to the lens and the background seems a lot larger and way more blurred out This is the type of effect you’ll get with the tele side of things And to get the entire subject in frame, you’re gonna need to scoot back This lens works great outdoors and it is amazing portrait, or headshot focal length But indoors, it can be tricky, where you are constrained by space You may find it frustrating to take photos of pets or children inside with a tele lens Then there’s something for the in-betweeners, like this guy, which is what I used in those shots This is the 35 millimeter F2 If you tended to like a little bit of wide angle, but still also a little bit of blurring in the background and all at a more manageable and comfortable distance, of not too far away and not too close A focal length similar to the 35 F2 will be probably more up your alley These lenses are often best for all purposes and are often called shoot around lenses for that reason In my mind, the mids are the best if you wanna do travel photography or you don’t know what you’ll be shooting in various activities But, you don’t wanna take a Zoom along, then this is your lens So now that we’ve covered focal lengths, let’s go ahead and give wide, mid and tele a score, between zero and 10 You’re also welcome to put multiple weighted scores, if you’re not totally sure Somewhere in between two categories, that’s fine That will be taken into account in the algorithm With that done though, let’s move on to the next category, which is budget If budget’s your biggest constraint and you’ve got to work within a given amount of limited funds, you might put a 10 in this category However, if you’ve got a lot of discretionary income and you just wanna find the perfect lens for you, maybe this gets a one or a zero As far as budget goes, you definitely should be responsible of course, but, do keep in mind, I have never heard a photographer, one who has stuck with photography long term anyway, ever say that they regretted buying a high end, or expensive lens As a photographer, your lenses are your most precious investment Far more valuable and important than your camera body, arguably Which, those tend to come and go and get replaced every few years, because they get worn out Lenses are meant to last your career, maybe even a lifetime But the good news is that most every lens that we’ll be covering today, will serve you well Our next category is weight and size Which should be self explanatory But, as you consider it, please remember the weight and size of your camera kit is at some level, inversely proportional to the amount of time that you will have your camera on you Meaning that if your camera is so big and bulky that it discourages you from taking it out with you, you’re just gonna take less photos So I think that’s really worth considering For our next category, if you’re not sure what shallow depth of field or bouquet is, that’s mostly referring to background blur, that thing that most newer photographers are craving, which is why many of them are upgrading, from their Smartphones, because those photos don’t adequately deliver all the time, even with computational photography To many newer photographers, this shallow depth of field effect, is what separates real photographers from folks just taking snapshots I disagree with that assertion

But, don’t let it bother you too much Taking photos with shallow depth of field, when you’re a newer photographer, can be really fun and exciting And many of you will be disappointed if you hitch yourself to a lens that can’t give you that effect But for older photographers, bouquet isn’t quite what does it for us about photography You’ll probably graduate to a more complex way of bringing interest into a photo, using other elements of composition For those who aren’t in it for the bouquet, you might rate this category a little lower Next, we have low light capability As newer photographers, it’s important for you to know that different lenses, have different capabilities, when it comes to allowing light to reach the sensor Maybe this is obvious to a lot of you, but just in case it’s not, I wanna emphasize that a large lens like this, is typically, gonna allow a lot more light in and focus it on the sensor, rather than a really small lens like this one It’s just basic physics But it also means that if you need to shoot in low light, you’ll be sacrificing weight and size and you’ll be spending a lot more money, because it’s just a lot more expensive glass With that in mind, consider how important low light shooting is to you And if you only shoot occasionally in low light and if when you do, you’re okay with a little bit of sensor noise, or grain, if you wanna make it sound less negative Maybe a lower score is warranted here However, if you plan on shooting a lot inside, with less than ideal lighting Or if you plan to do a lot of evening or night street photography work or events, maybe you absolutely can’t compromise here and you’ll wanna put a higher score Next, we have sharpness If you only ever plan to show your photos on social media or print small, I’d put a one or a zero here, honestly All the lenses I’m about to describe, will be completely satisfactory for your sharpness needs in those cases However, if you tend to crop a lot, or if you like the pixel peep, which means looking at the tiny details in a photo zoomed in Or if you’d like to be sure that when you print your pictures, at resolutions higher than maybe 8×10, they look their absolute best, you’re gonna wanna raise this score a bit higher Next, we have weather resistance It’s important to note here that no camera gear is impervious to the elements If you plan to take your gear out in inclement conditions regularly, you always have risk However, having some weather resistance on a lens, when you’re in a light rain, or a splash zone at Sea World, it’s nice peace of mind But remember, having weather resistance on your lens, is sort of meaningless, if it’s not going to be on a camera that also has weather sealing So if you don’t have a FUJI body with weather sealing, I would probably rate this one lower and be careful Finally, let’s rate close focus Do you like shooting macro photos, or maybe not macro, but, at least details If that’s an absolute must for a lens, you’ll wanna put a higher score here But if it’s more of a nice to have or something you’re not bothered by, maybe rate it lower For me, I love being able to get close I don’t require exactly macro all the time, but it is nice to be able to get as close as a few feet to really isolate an important detail in a scene Absent from this scoring sheet, is something I started out including and that’s lens auto-focus speed But then, as I started doing this really indepth testing comparing FUJI Prime lenses speeds, auto focusing speeds on the XT3, the differences are just so nominal, that I can’t imagine that it would really factor into a buying decision for any photographer, especially newer photographers On older camera bodies, maybe yes, or maybe not some of the higher end ones But, as FUJI continues on in the future, using their high end technology on their other camera, that kind of cascades down I think you’ll see that most camera bodies will eliminate any real substantial difference between auto focus So forward thinking here, I’m not including it, because I just don’t think it’ll matter that much But, if you’re worried about it, if you have a really old body, just remember that the larger lenses, they’re slower at focusing, as a general rule, than those smaller F2 lenses All right, with all those scores filled out, now it’s time for the big reveal In my scoring algorithm, I’m giving you the top and then the secondary lens recommendation for whatever parameters you provided And I’ve played with this quite a bit and with many, many variations and different parameters I feel pretty good that it’s outputting what I would recommend to you, if we were doing this in person So, keep in mind, it’s my recommendation It doesn’t make it the best and I would encourage you to do your own research and talk to other people, as well It’s also important to note that this algorithm reflects my location and current perspective on these lenses If you want to peek under the hood and see what I’m basing my recommendations on, you can click the advanced button Here’ you’ll be able to play with the scores that I’ve given, to each of the different lenses and the different criterias That way, if you don’t agree with me

on how I’ve scored something, like sharpness, you can change it and fine tune things for yourself Though, I have to say, if you know enough about these lenses to do that, you probably don’t need my calculator But as an example of sharpness, I am basing this score, pretty strictly on the MFT data that FUJI provides for each lens But there’s a lot of room for interpretation there, in many cases In general though, it’s safe to say, certain lenses are far sharper than others In other cases, the curves are different, but extremely similar So it’s a real close call In these cases, I’ve had to make a judgment call, with either anecdotal data, from my own experience Others I’ve had to research from people who have used them more than I have But I do feel pretty good about how I’ve rated their sharpness But yeah, I mean, if you disagree, feel free to override my scores Additionally, for the pricing score, this is current U.S. dollars, as of October 2019 And the pricing doesn’t actually include any FUJI deals that might be going on Which, they do often, so you’ll wanna override those scores if you notice some good sales going on The actual dollar is just a reference only The calculator doesn’t take the dollar amount, just the score next to it So keep that in mind So that’s the scoring calculator and I sincerely hope it helps you But, I still don’t think it’s quite enough alone There are some other things to keep in mind, that this calculator can’t take into consideration, because, many of them are just unique to certain lenses So now that you have a couple recommendations from me, what I wanna do, in the second part of this video, is to go through very briefly, the other aspects of these lenses Their quirks and the small things that add a little extra level of dynamics to the recommendations I just provided Hey guys, we interrupt this program, to remind you of the photo contest we’re currently running from now until December 10th, called Do Good with your Camera If you’ve got some photography talent and a bunch of gear and don’t know what to point it at, please consider doing some good with it and while you’re at it, enter to win some really incredible prizes – Like this FUJI XT100, which you can win, by Tweeting, Facebooking, or Instagraming the URL dogoodwithyourcamera.com and #dogoodwithyourcamera If you wanna go ahead and do that, you’ll automatically be entered – Now if you really wanna go out and do some good, consider using your talents to serve others directly Or, capture service being rendered and then enter to win some incredible prizes If that sounds interesting to you, you can watch the video that we’ve linked to above, or in the description, for more info – And now back to your regularly scheduled boring Andrew – So let’s talk about the lenses themselves I’m gonna do this fast again and I’m not gonna cover every single aspect of every single Prime lens, because most of that is available with a quick glance at a spec sheet I’ll give you the most notable characteristics of each of these lenses Their quirks, what people talk about who shoot with them regularly What they’re famous and infamous for And hopefully, that will give you an added level of dimension to your decision making We’ll start with the wide end and make our way up to tele photo The 14 millimeter 2.8, is one of FUJI’s oldest lenses, at least for the X mount series But it’s established a very high sharpness benchmark, that FUJI wasn’t able to hit again, until the release of some of their longer telephoto lenses more recently It’s absolutely the sharpest wide angle lens, that FUJI produces As an older design the aperture ring doesn’t have that same quality that the newer Primes have So it’s a little loose and it does have a loud focus with that micro motor But it has really nice clutch focus ability, that several of the larger Prime lenses do have, along with the distance markings, which are absent from most other FUJI Primes If you zone focus at all, this is a very nice to have feature The 16 millimeter 2.8, is one of FUJI’s smallest lenses It’s also definitely sharper, than many of the other lenses, I’d say one of the top five or six Certainly sharper than its bigger brother, the 16 1.4 The biggest quirk, or gotcha, with this lens, is that it’s mislabeled I do not consider this to actually be a 16 millimeter lens It’s closer to maybe a 15 millimeter lens And I’ve even heard someone who shoots with the 14 millimeter that we just talked about, say that it actually looks more similar to the 14 millimeter, as far as angle of view, than the 16 millimeter 1.4 So I’m not sure why FUJI is calling this a 16 millimeter focal length I don’t know if it’s marketing, or what But just keep that in mind It’s very quiet when it focuses with that stepper motor But due to its small size, it’s not super enjoyable to manual focus, especially with the lens hood on, where it’s hard to get your fingers here in that groove to really focus Especially if you have thick fingers But that’s not what you use a lens like this for anyway The other notable thing about this lens though is, its price, I consider this lens one of FUJI’s best values

for your dollar The image quality’s superb and the price point relatively speaking, is low I’ve said it many times before, the 16 millimeter 1.4 is my favorite FUJI lens But I don’t wanna put out any misinformation here It’s my favorite, but it doesn’t mean that it’s the best in every criteria For instance, sharpness It’s actually on the softer end, certainly in the bottom half of the FUJI Prime lenses The reason it’s my favorite, is because of the shallow depth of field you can get with that 1.4 aperture lens The awesome focal length and its crazy close focus ability Since the 16 millimeter 2.8, isn’t actually a 16 millimeter focal length, this lens really is the only FUJI lens that fits exactly where I want a lens to fit, when it comes to angle a view The other thing to keep in mind is, as I’ve said before, it’s bigger There’s a lot more glass, so it can focus slow, if you have an older FUJI body It’s also very loud when it focuses, which I find slightly annoying, when I’m utilizing the clutch manual focus and I don’t use this for video either, for the same reason, because it’s loud and it’s been picked up in mics before At least with the type of shooting that I do But I do like manually focusing with this lens, at least in terms of mirrorless lenses, it’s nice to use that clutch focus, that has a definite stop and start It’s better than other lenses that will just focus, you know, the focus ring will just turn forever So that’s a nice, still not as nice as older, vintage lenses, but it is nice 18 millimeter F2, seems like it’s every FUJI shooter’s favorite lens to hate And that’s mostly because it’s FUJI’s softest lens and due to the purple fringing that haunts this lens, really all throughout the aperture range This is also one of FUJI’s first lenses, they produced for the FUJI X mount, so it has that older style of build, with that external focus, which some don’t like I don’t like and it’s also a very loud focuser Photographers also used to complain that this lens tended to back focus and struggle with auto focus I don’t think that that’s an issue any longer, on more modern FUJI bodies, but it is something that I’ve seen reported The FUJI 23 millimeter F2 is a lens that I’ve enjoyed using in the past It’s most well known and notorious for being fairly sharp when photographing things at a distance But it’s cursed with soft rendering, when doing close focus work I would own this lens today, honestly, if it were not for how soft and ghostly things tend to appear at that close focus range Other than that, it’s quiet, it’s small, it’s affordable and it’s lovely The 23 millimeter 1.4 is one of those FUJI lenses that checks most of the boxes It has that clutch focus, with that low aperture number Not too large and heavy It’s on the sharper end of things Not the sharpest, but not too bad But like the 16 1.4, it is loud when it focuses The 27 millimeter 2.8 pancake lens wins the award for smallest and lightest, weighing less than 100 grams, which is really amazing If you want an inconspicuous affordable and a good mid focal distance lens, this is the lens for you It’s also on the sharper end of FUJI Primes, actually There are two drawbacks, when it comes to this lens though One is that external focus movement, that I keep bringing up But many people aren’t bothered by that at all and you might not care either But it also is the one FUJI Prime lens that does not have the built in aperture ring control on the lens You actually have to change the aperture with the control dial on the camera body The FUJI 35 millimeter 1.4, is the oldest of FUJI X Prime lenses and the body style shows that Again, with that external focusing motor, and aperture ring that is a bit loose There is a lot of nostalgia associated with this lens and there seems to me, from what I can tell, that there’s a large group of FUJI photographers, many whom are professional even, who just adore this lens But if we’re all honest, which (laughs), many people aren’t, when it comes to this one, it is one of the softest FUJI Prime lenses, unfortunately Especially at close focus It sort of feels a bit to me, more like a classic lens, or a vintage lens, in the way that it renders things And many have been calling for FUJI for years, to provide an updated fast aperture 35 millimeter lens Unlike other FUJI 1.4 lenses, it has no clutch focus And it’s actually not pleasant to use for manual focus work Some got excited when FUJI announced that really fast 33 millimeter F1 aperture lens But when they canceled that and changed the focal length to a 15 millimeter, many of us who were looking forward to a fast aperture 35 millimeter replacement, were disappointed with that news As it stands though, this is a very polarizing lens and some people just really love it So I don’t wanna talk you out of it, if you’re one of those people The 35 millimeter F2, is almost identical

in size and weight to the small 16 millimeter 2.8 FUJI lens While it’s not the sharpest FUJI Prime lens on the block, it certainly is more sharp than the 35 1.4 Like most of the FUJI F2 lenses, it’s super quiet and it has an aperture ring that works well and feels nice It’s tight, it’s elegant It finds its way on my FUJI bodies more often, than just about any other FUJI Prime lens out there and I often recommend this lens to beginners If there’s one lens that wins the award for best overall lens, it’s the 50 millimeter F2 No other lens balances all the factors I mentioned, those eight factors, that I feel are most important, more than this lens It’s small, it’s quiet, it’s performant The image quality is superb, with sharpness that places it in the top five of the FUJI Prime lenses It has a close focus ability, that most other Prime lenses don’t have, while being relatively affordable The only thing I can say negatively about this lens, is that it’s no longer on my shelf, because I was stupid and sold it The 56 millimeter 1.2, has become enshrined as the portrait lens of choice among amateurs and professionals alike, with good reason Of all the FUJI Prime lenses, it wins the award for the lowest aperture, which provides that really shallow depth of field and that creamy bouquet that so many people seem obsessed with It also has amazing low light performance But it’s certainly not the sharpest FUJI lens I’d place it somewhere in the middle of the pack And it lacks that clutch focus ability that some of the other fast aperture Prime lenses have I also find the aperture ring to be too loose and I have bumped it plenty of times and not realized it and messed up some shots when I needed a certain aperture But, aside from those negatives, it really is a phenomenal lens and it’s pretty important in a wedding photographer’s kit, or an event photographer like me, because of that low light gathering ability The 56 1.2 APD version, is a specialized lens and it’s one that I would never recommend to newer photographers, because of the price and the relatively small increase in value that it brings to you Unless you’re just spectacularly wealthy and you don’t know what else to do with the piles of money sitting around in your living room, I wouldn’t buy it, but this lens is identical to the 56 1.2 in every way, except that it has an apodization coating on the lens, which creates softer edges to the out of focus background elements But in addition to the increased monetary cost, this also comes with another price and that is in light gathering ability It doesn’t have that same 1.2 aperture, it’s somewhere on 1.7, I believe And also, you take a hit when it comes to auto focus ability, especially in low light The 60 millimeter 2.4 lens, is mislabeled as a macro lens Many believe it shouldn’t be labeled as such, since it doesn’t actually get you a one to one ratio, reproduction ratio Like a true macro lens will But with that 1.2, it certainly is no slouch, when it comes to close focusing But that is about the only thing that I think justifies the price The 50 millimeter F2 beats it in almost every way, including sharpness and it’s cheaper The 60 millimeter 2.4 is an older style lens, with external focusing and it has that loose aperture ring About the only time I’d recommend getting this, is if you wanted macro on a budget, or if you find a really good deal on one and need that focal length, for portrait work But I mean, I said, if you want macro on a budget But I still think you might have better results with just using an extension tube, because, it’s not stabilized, so But speaking of macro and stabilization, let’s talk about the 80 millimeter 2.8 macro lens It’s a really superb performer, you guys FUJI pulled out all the stops, to build a professional macro photographer’s lens and they did it right This is the only FUJI Prime lens with optical image stabilization, other than the 200 millimeter F2, but that’s just in a different category That stabilization is necessary, when doing hand held macro, but I consider this lens to be FUJI’s sharpest lens and have heard anecdotally from professional macro photographers, who consider this lens to be the best macro lens that they have shot with on any system Which is really high praise For those not using this for macro work though, it can work for portraiture and I get that question a lot But you wanna be aware of the, both the cat sized style bouquet balls that it can create, when compared to a smoother bouquet performers, like the 56 1.2 and the 90 millimeter F2 I also notice that it’s not as accurate, in auto focusing in low light conditions But there are those who claim that that’s been improved with recent software updates I haven’t tested that So I’m not sure The 90 millimeter F2, is an absolutely superb portrait lens And is right up there as one of FUJI’s absolutely sharpest lens It kills the 56 1.2 in sharpest comparison I have to put that in perspective though

We’re talking such a small difference, just when you compare sharpness overall, this is much sharper than the 56 1.2 But again, most people, you won’t even know the difference Many newer photographers, make the false assumption that they will get smoother and shallower out of focus area, with the 56 1.2 also, due to that lower aperture number But I can attest to the fact that the 90 F2 beats it, both due to the compression that occurs, when the subjects are framed the same way in camera, relative to these two camera lenses And because the rendering just seems smoother to me So personally, I prefer the bouquet out of the 90 F2 So if that’s the most important aspect to you, I don’t know, you might consider this one, over that 56 1.2 The 90 millimeter F2 also has a stiffer and more reliable aperture ring I love it It’s my favorite aperture ring, than all of the other lenses It stays where you put it and contrast that again with the 56 1.2, which is loosey goosey For me, this is the no compromise portrait lens in the FUJI lens line up The only reason the 56 1.2 beats it, is in the scenarios where you need low light access, or you’re constrained by how much room you have to work, because it’s a 90 millimeter focal length But with that longer focal length, this isn’t the lens you want for indoors It can’t compete with the 56 1.2, if you wanna shoot in low light It’s also a hefty lens and you’ll notice that with that quad linear motor system, which makes this lens very fast at focusing and actually quiet, but what it does, when this isn’t powered, you’ll hear that knocking around, as the motor disengages I personally find this very jarring But keep in mind that it is normal The last FUJI Prime lens, is one that may never show up in my office and it’s the only way I’ve never held But I do feel obligated to speak about it, because, it is a Prime lens But it’s the FUJI 200 millimeter F2 lens and it’s absolutely stunning It’s just, it’s just more expensive than my car This is more of a specialty lens, that even professionals don’t often buy, choosing to rent a lot of times, unless you’re a high end professional sports, or wildlife photographer And I don’t really feel the need to go into it on this video, because this video is designed for to help newer photographers, so Enough said about that lens If you wanna send me one though, or buy one for me I’ll let you So that’s it for the Primes, which have been released for FUJI When it comes to the road map though, we only know of one lens, currently in production, at least right now That’s the 50 millimeter F1 lens, which looks massive and which will appeal to people who want razor sharp depth of field to utterly obliterate that background and only show one poor in focus It’ll be the one that wedding photographers will get so they can brag to their other wedding photographer friends But we don’t know much about that lens yet, other than the crazy fast F1 aperture As soon as we do have definitive specs, (slow hip hop music) I’ll add that to the calculator though But that’s all I’ve got for you for now guys If you found any of this valuable, which I really hope you have, then, do me a solid and well, you don’t have to do anything I don’t really care You can subscribe if you want to, but, just you know, mostly, I just, ♪ Yeah, yeah ♪ I’m just tired of getting questions and not being able to answer you So that’s why I did this But please let me know if I’ve forgotten anything important in regards to any of these lenses Or if you disagree or feel like I’ve said something in error, ♪ Yeah, yeah ♪ it’s certainly happened before If I have any errors that I’ve introduced, or if someone mentions something that I really feel like is a good point, I will pin it So be sure to check the pinned comment, for any of that ♪ Yeah, yeah ♪ But, and I will update this video in the future, every couple of years, I’ll probably do a new one But until then, remember, Kindness before cameras, guys, and we will talk to you again real soon ♪ Yeah, yeah ♪

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