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Let the kanna dai (wooden body) acclimate to the room for a few months This dai has been left for one year since it was acquired First, check the condition of the plane Hit the back of the dai and remove the main blade and chipbreaker This plane blade is made beautifully However, a new blade cannot be used without sharpening Check the gap between the “holding grooves” and the plane blade If there is no play here, the lateral bias of the blade cannot be adjusted The gap has disappeared because the dai contracted Rub graphite onto the sides of the blade Insert the blade and check where it comes into contact If you hit the center of the dai, it will split Make sure to hit the left and right alternately Use a chisel to shave off the areas which came into contact Repeat this to make a gap of about 1mm OK if the light can be seen through Drop the “ears” (corners) of the plane Adjust so that it is narrower than the width of the chipbreaker Use a grinder to drop the ears of the plane An angle adjustment jig is useful To suppress heat generation, use a sharpener to remove the clogging of the grinding wheel The left and right sides are ground off equally The angle is not important The width of the plane blade is made smaller than the chipbreaker Make sure that the width of the blade is made narrower than the mouth opening of the dai Perform uraoshi wih a #3000 grit whetstone Flatten the surface of the stone Apply wax to the corners of the grindstone that do not require polishing Wax is a measure to avoid cutting the upper portion of the blade If you use WA polish powder, you can grind well Use # 3000 WA because it is # 3000 whetstone

Grind by applying force to the cutting edge so that the back portion is not ground down Check the state of the back of the blade after every 10 cycles of sharpening By looking at the areas which become shiny, it can be confirmed that the cutting edge escaped contact with the whetstone Push out the blade edge using “uradashi” Use an anvil and a hammer, and hit the blade bevel The tapping position is one third from the cutting edge However, when I hit the steel, it cracked, so I hit it in the middle Press again and look at the contact areas The contact has become stronger Repeat this to sharpen to the cutting edge If you sharpen to the edge like this, it is OK Using a # 800 whetstone, define the shape (angle) of the bevel The angle is about 28 ° for the time being, sharpen it flat When the shape is complete, sharpen in the order of # 1000 → # 3000 → # 6000 → # 8000 Bevel the ears of the blade If they are sharp, they will cut the insides of the dai I sharpened it to a plane Normally, a slight radius is added to the edge of the blade to eliminate the plane boundary Check the sharpness on copy paper There are many people who check by cutting diagonally in this way, but even dull blades can cut easily with this method The blade that can really cut can cut at a right angle I’m sharpening it because it cuts badly. Do you notice the difference in sound? The chipbreaker is also prepared in the same way with uraoshi and uradashi The bevel of the chipbreaker is sharpened at about 25°, and finished with a secondary angle of 50 ° Finish the edge with 0.2mm wide 50 degree bevel

The cutting edge is barely sharpened with a secondary bevel The burr of the two-step sharpening of the chipbreaker is cut off the wood and removed This is OK because it is not a cutting blade Check the alignment of the plane and the chipbreaker Adjust the alignment with the corners of the chipbreaker (You may cut the ears) OK if no ticking sound comes out We prepare “surface familiarity” of the dai and adjust so that the plane blade emerges We apply graphite to the blade and check the contact areas Shave off the area where graphite adheres Adjust so that it comes into contact with the entire surface Try to insert the blade by hand and scrape off the “surface familiarity” until it stops at a position 2-3mm from the table Repeat this process while observing the protrusion of edge of the blade We put plane by hand and tailored to stop at position of 2mm If you hit it with a hammer, the blade will protrude The opening and edge has come Next, I will widen the the opening Make a jig to expand the mouth opening Cut the wood offcuts to about 75 ° Using the jig, cut off the cutting edge at an angle of 75 ° by 0.5mm to 1mm Without cutting off all at once, spread it little by little while checking the gap between the blade and the mouth opening The finish of the cutting edge is an important part that has a great effect on the evacuation of wood shavings and planing against the grain The gap between the cutting edge and the opening is adjusted to approximately 0.7mm

Adjustment of the chipbreaker pressing rod If the chipbreaker does not contact the bar evenly, prepare the pressing rod by sharpening it for a tight fit Extract the pressing rod Use a file or grinder to cut off the areas where the chipbreaker came into contact strongly If you cut too much, replace the bar and try again, or deal with it by raising the ears of the chipbreaker Check that the chipbreaker is contact evenly Using a flat surface plate such as glass, adjust the “bottom” of the dai to a flat surface Attach #240 sandpaper to the surface plate Draw lines at the bottom to confirm the planarity Set the plane blade to just before protruding from the body before sanding (Because when you insert the plane blade, the wooden bottom will swell outwards.) You can see that the “rise” where the plane blade inflated the wood is sanded Sand so that the dai is not twisted or uneven It has become a flat surface This time we will adjust it as a plane for finishing Create a virtual plane by shaving all areas except for the 3 areas of bottom, cutting edge, and top, by about 0.1 mm Sanding by 0.1mm The numbers are a guide. Sand with a feeling of making a thin gap Use a chisel to scrape the side of the dai that cannot be sanded Finally, remove the sandpaper particles with air and resharpen the blade Finish by applying rust preventive oil The blade and chipbreaker are inserted into the dai together If you insert the chipbreaker after the blade, the edge of the chipbreaker will chip due to the back of the main blade The chipbreaker is positioned 0.2 to 1mm from the cutting edge Fine adjustments are made according to the type of wood and the degree of blade protrusion

Since the setting of the plane is finished, we do a test cut The wood is red pine

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