welcome to meet me again on the same youtube channel on this occasion I will explain about the grader grade cruders what I will explain here is the function or use of rough crabs and information related to them then how to set it starts by adjusting the body, handle, peg, how to adjust the chip (chip breaker), how to sharpen the knife then the last is how to use these rough crabs OK, we continue now to use this rough crab function or use the function of these rough crabs is to make uneven wood made flat but the shape is still rough for example this wood, consider it long here the reference is the thinnest then there is a level difference here 1 / 4cm higher here 1cm higher here 1cm higher then we have to eliminate 1 / 4cm here 1cm here and 1cm here well, if we use smoother or jointer (long crabs) it’s very difficult, then we use then we use for this purpose is rough crabs then the result is rough average in this sense it’s level, everything is level but here there are still small waves well that’s what is called the rough average and the small waves I mentioned earlier can be easily removed using long crabs and even soft crabs rough crabs have a length of 25cm to 35cm (can be less or less) So, what size do I hold? 28cm then how do you set these rough crabs? for example you have rough crabs but don’t function properly or suppose you buy a new crab, the new crab needs to be set first how do you set these rough crabs? then the first thing we have to do is even the bottom or the sole is leveled first check whether he is flat or not? if it’s not flat, we flatten it first then how to flatten it? how to even it out easily You prepare a very flat media coated with sandpaper, grit 100 or grit 180 sandpaper just rough sandpaper, then we flatten well this is granite coated with sandpaper using a double tip which is at the edges we flatten the lower part of the body first it’s enough to hold the center and then rub it repeatedly until it’s completely flat to be more convincing, you can add a sign here

then we continue leveling the sole again So, it seems it’s flat, the sole after we flatten the sole and make sure the bottom is flat then the next step is to check the crossbar handle, this grip part Here we check, what should we check from this rough crab handle? we put it in place, then check does it tilt or not? then by placing wood over here, pay attention! If we measure, here we measure, the tip with the tip we measure well, the reference is the upper part of the handle is the height the same or not? the top part is the part here and here the position must be really balanced, have the same height, if not the same then please correct it by removing just a little bit of the top well, after being convinced that the crossbar handle (handle) is really the same height then the next step is to check the “bed” part (the part of the wood where the knife base rests) check if he’s really flat? we put the blades (blades) on the “bed” then we check, is this flat or not? so the point is, in making the planers. there is what is called “blade fitting” “blade fitting” is to ensure the entire blade surface, regarding the entire surface of the wood, well, that’s called the blade fitting if the entire blade surface is here, this much, it sticks to the wood touch the entire surface of the wood, then he is fit well, if for example there is a slight shake there is a kind of uneven, then we flatten using a miser then we check and make sure that the “bed” or wood where the knife rests are perfectly attached

or hit the entire blade surface (blade) here well this is done (completely flat) this is called the blade fitting job in fact, in a professional plane maker he has his own tools for this job, it’s called “plane maker float” so he has a function to flatten the bed, check, open the mouth it’s a set of shapes like a miser, only when viewed from the edge it looks like a saw and really level or level he was to flatten the bed, correct the check, then open his mouth and so on the next step in adjusting is checking the mouth, this mouth sometimes the making isn’t really perfect so you have to fix the mouth here make sure that the “wear strip” made of brass is completely flat with wood make sure he is really flat and nothing is up if for example it does not have a wear strip or a friction barrier here so in the crab there is a so-called critical point, the critical point is the part of crabs that are easily damaged This is easily damaged so patched with wear strips or sometimes patched with wood that has the characteristics of “heavy wear resistance” heavy wear resistance wood: wood that has very super friction resistance usually for woodworking enthusiasts usually use boxwood the boxwood itself is not grown anywhere, but imported boxwood in turkish country (turkish boxwood) it (turkish boxwood) is the strongest wood against friction the next step is to check whether the peg is removed so he (the peg) must have the same slope So, check whether the peg is removed or not

for example he is loose, meaning this is thicker than this one but if you have measured it and have the same thickness using calipers for example then what you have to fix is ‚Äč‚Äčthis, you have to scrape it a little bit, use a miser well, this seems like it’s really removed the work of releasing these pegs on the crab’s body, it’s called the “wedge fitting” the next step is to set a dual (chip breaker, cap iron) that looks like this then we check, first we have to check is this part make sure this part has no scratches and is smooth, that’s all once convinced, this will not inhibit the rate of wood coming out has no scratches and does not inhibit the rate of wood coming out then the next step is to check this section he must be completely flat, and his entire surface must touch the surface of the blade (blade) facing him then check this part of the surface if we turn it over, don’t let any visible light (translucent) so we check this part all it must touch completely against the blade surface (blade) if for example you haven’t, then you can adjust it in a way sharpen it on a flat surface let’s install it we check whether there is light entering (there is a little tenuous)

if you are sure there is no light coming in, it means tuning the cap iron / chip breaker is correct after completing this cap iron / chip breaker / duplicate then the next step is adjust and sharpen the blade well, first you have to do is make this part rough, so that he has a great resistance (friction) and is not easily released but this is optional so you can do it or not if for example you are sure it will not come loose, do not have to do it, but if for example it will be easily separated then do it This uses a rough grid grit 100 or grid 80, so the surface becomes rough then we check this part, is it sharp or not? if it’s sharp, we are just stingy suppose this blade is new, then all you have to do is remove scratches here, the distance is quite this much, not much this one is left alone, even made rough knives are forged some kind of Japanese planer knife forged manually (not machine) there is a job called “back flatening” namely leveling the back but this one has been machined (not manually forged) so the surface is flat it’s just that the texture is still rough well, all you have to do is make this part smoother this part is made very fine, really smooth (sharpened & distroping) as for the top part let alone rough we go to the smooth grid then stick to the duplicate (chip breaker / cap iron) you can make it rough so he has a big obstacle (friction) here to here

then you also sand the chip breaker or stamp iron part as well so that he has more resistance (has a strong frictional force) he will not shift, strong, this stage of setting the chip breaker (cap iron) is correct, it’s finished then smoothing out the parts are also done then the next step is how to sharpen the rough planer knife? I might discuss how to sharpen it in the next videos maybe here there are things that should be underlined that for rough crabs, the knife is made curved now, pay attention! of the many knives I have maybe there are some knives that are for smootheer it (the smoother blade) is very flat, with rounded corners (slightly curved edges) well, for these rough crabs, there’s a slight curve well, this is for rough crabs (jack hand plane) this one is for smoother this is jack (hand plane [rough crabs]) this is the jack (hand plane [rough crabs]) the question is: how much is the curve which should be used in rough crabs? then the answer is up to you depending on how much you want to get rid of the wood how thick the chip is from the shavings then it depends on you sometimes he has rather large arches rather big like this less visible huh? the curve is rather big like this less visible huh? clear he arch must be under crab scrub this (the arch) is very rough huh sometimes we drag it to cut the direction of fiber this is under the scrub, everything under the scrub, the curvature is not as extreme as this one then sharpening it is like this depending on how big the arch is, so we just follow the contour of the arch on sharpening rough crabs or crabs whose knives require a curve (slight curvature) we don’t use honing guides This is not used so we sharpen it without using an honing guide and sharpened freely (freehand) the important thing is the angle is right then we then attach the duplicate to the blade

well, this is very important what is the height of the chip (chip breaker) with the blade? is it as close as this as close as this or 1mm, 2mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm? then on rough crabs, installed far away (4mm or 5mm) so he is paired around 4mm or 5mm 4mm or 5mm, well, like this dual function here has nothing to do with “tear out” (as in soft crabs / lubricants) but he is more to prevent the occurrence of vibration or vibration at the time of knocking it, there was no vibration even if the blade is thick This is because there is no thick blade on the market, only 3mm thick then if the blade is 4mm or 5mm thick then this (duplicate) can be removed on rough crabs (with thick blades), these (chip breakers) can be removed so you use one blade (blade / blade) put in the crab body and finished then it’s finished, and who uses this one blade named “single iron” while using chip breaker (dual) called “double iron” well, this double jack (rough crabs) serves to hold the vibration, so it has nothing to do with “tear out” well, when it’s done with this, then we check, we try we try, does it function properly or not? how to install it if you are used to it then you just hold this, hold on, hold with a thumb, then put this in (wedge) then we hit it with a hammer the settings are correct, then a light tap here alone can grip the blade firmly then if it’s not right then he will easily escape if this one is gripping this one then when it knives it will tilt (the knife will tilt) if it’s loose here, it’s tight here, it will tilt here and vice versa then we try tap (hit with a hammer) and this is strong, very strong, because we have already set it the next step is: how to use then the next step is to try the planers that we have set, is it functioning properly or not? here I have wood, which has the same level / height (thick side) this is 3cm, while this one is 3.5cm so we mark first from the lowest level here

so the height difference is around 0.5cm so I consider this one just average then we try the planers using these rough planers, then what are the results? this is called “toothed planing stop” or “toothed bench dog” he is planning a stop that has teeth its function is to leave the wood in order not to shake here and there and be quiet well, what is meant by the rough average now I am easier to explain, what is meant by rough average is that he is flat but rough the meaning of rough here is not a rough texture, it tends to even smooth he tends to be subtle, but if we hold / touch there are waves this is because the shape of the blade on the rough crab curved shape well, the shape is curved then the next stage so that it is perfectly flat then we use long planers this is about 60cm long The long crab is (on average) about 60cm to 70cm in length as for the difference in the knife is like this it’s still a little curved but the curve isn’t steep different from this one you need to know, that this planer not suitable for use with western workbench models unsuitable for use with western workbench tables like this roubo workbench or moravian that I use this is due to the very light weight of wooden crabs different from western crabs which have heavy weights

then we can just throw while this one, uses our energy from wood to wood so if the workbench is too high then it will be very tiring, this I am forced to use moravian workbench, because there is no other workbench because this wood is short about 52cm long then actually do not need long crabs like this because basically a crab can flatten wood 3x the length of the body so this is 3x the body length can be leveled

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