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Hello, everyone. This is Baum FPV This is my first attempt to make a Youtube video I am going to continue to make Youtube videos I want to make videos which are helpful to you guys in a practical way This time, I want to show my new build Today, I am going to explain why I chose these components In the next video, I will show the process of building a quad and setting betaflight and blheli_32 And then I will show how to tune the quad During the process, I will compare how different between a default quad and a tuned quad And I will make the exact same quads except motors and propellers to compare motors This must be fun. The test will be accomplished by 3-4 pilots in my local club My local club has a test course which combines UTT4 and UTT6 I usually complete the course in about 30 seconds consistently, so I represent a beginner Another pilot is an intermediate who runs the course in about 25 seconds The other pilot is an expert who finishes it in about 20 seconds We will compare several motors to know which one is good for which level of pilots. So I bought two sets of the exact same components Today, I am going to explain why I chose these components There are so many things to know for beginners to start in racing drones We have to figure out everything by ourselves. Therefore, without a help from experts, it takes too long to actually fly a quad, making many people just give up I spent more than half an year to understand what I should know These choices are from my hard-earned experience Therefore, if you are a beginner, you will not fail when you just follow my build This video will be a little bit long, but I am sure if you keep watching, it will be very useful Now, I am going to show what I will use in this build. First of all, the frame is Xhover Win 5 The FC is CL Racing F4 The ESCs are Spedix GS30 30a, Blheli_32 The camera is Foxeer Monster V2 The VTX is Eachine VTX03 The motors are Hyperlite 2204 3022KV The RX is Flysky A8S

The rest are silicone pads for motors, bobbings for the FC, 220uf low esr capacitors for the ESCs and titanium screws Now, I am going to tell you the good things and bad things about these components First, the Frame I have used so many frames The frame is Xhover Win5 and I think this is THE best racing frame currently available in the market That doesn’t mean the quality is the best That means this is the best “racing” frame for an amateur racer Please, make no mistake. I am solely focusing on racing I am going to tell you why this frame is so good in some aspects First of all, It’s affordable It’s very common for a racer to break a frame But then it’s really scary to fly aggressively if the frame is expensive This frame costs about $60 So this is not that expensive Most importantly, arms are cheap. Each arm costs just about $7 So it’s much more affordable than most frames in the market The next good thing is that it’s light The weight is about 64 grams All the carbons weigh 55 grams When I add 4 x 12mm screws, 4 x 8mm screws and 4 x 28mm standoffs, it’s 64 grams If I replace steel screws to titanium screws, it weights 61 grams, 3 grams less This is light. Of course, there are lighter frames which weigh around 40 grams or 50 grams However, about 60 grams is still light. I personally think that racing frames should weigh not more than 70 grams This is my personal opinion and the frames I am going to mention are also good frames Nowadays, many frames are focusing on aerodynamics. We can see some vertical arm frames as well The problem is that to make vertical arms possible, manufactures have to add some other parts, for example, parts to mount motors. These add up weight Sometimes, those frames weigh more than 100 grams In fact, aerodynamics works great when the drone continues to fly in a high speed However, in the modern racing, we don’t usually fly continuously in a high speed We have to sharp-turn and accelerate quickly That is, acceleration and agility matter the most For that, weight plays much greater role than aerodynamics I doubt that adding 40 or more grams to make aerodynamic frames, could give any benefits in the modern racing environment

I think the disadvantage of heaviness outweighs the advantage of aerodynamics Another good thing about the frame is the width of arms is about 12mm So it’s easy to mount separate escs For one, the Spedix GS30’s width is about 14mm The floss frame has 8mm arms. It seems dangerous to put 14mm escs on 8mm arms And it also makes the aerodynamics of narrow arms, useless The arms of Win 5 is still narrower than most escs, but it looks safer than 6mm or 8mm arms I believe that an amateur racer should use individual escs. I will explain it later Therefore, 12mm arms for this weight seems good And I also believe that an amateur racer should go for replaceable arms There are two reasons. First, arms are the weakest parts to break Second, the replaceable arms also reduce noise from motors Replaceable arms are connected to the main plate with screws and nuts That part actually plays a role in reducing resonance of motors’ vibration For one, this is Loki S5 which is unibody and I think, is a really good frame in the aspects of weight and shape However, I suffered from noise when I used this frame At the time, I mounted Efaw 2407 motors on this, which are big motors The motors’ vibration resonates all the way to the FC stacks There’s no place to absorb that resonance Therefore, the gyro sensor should be susceptible to noise But this replaceable-arm frame has a place to absorb that noise somewhat Moreover, the replaceable-arm frame should be easy to replace arms in the field However, it is hard to replace arms in some nowadays light-weight frames In most cases, the holes to make arms firm are a part of mounting electronics To secure arms, we have to use nuts. This is especially because most stretched, light-weight frames don’t have inter-locking arms In the meantime, Xhover Win5 arms can be inter-locked But since the Floss frame doesn’t have that kind of arms, we have to use nuts to tighten arms Therefore, it is very hard to replace arms in the field, since the nuts are a part of mounting electronics To loosen the nuts, we have to use a wrench, but it’s hard to put it in So, to replace arms, we have no choice but to dissemble everything. It’s really cumbersome

When I actually broke arms in the field, I just gave up. I usually replaced arms at home In the case of Xhover Win5, there are three holes to tighten an arm True, the middle hole is a part of mounting electronics, but that hole is not to make arms firm After all, the other two holes are used to tighten an arm Better, the inside nuts are already installed in the frame Therefore, we don’t need put a wrench in to tighten or loosen screws We have to use nuts in outside holes, but that doesn’t make any trouble, since we can make use of a wrench easily So we don’t need to dissemble electronics to change arms. We only need to loosen screws. This is really convenient Anyone who has tried to change arms in the field, would understand what I am talking about Again, the arms are inter-locked to each other, which is also good to make arms more firm Arms in frames like the Floss, will move around after a few crashes All of this also generate noise And there are some other design factors which seem very thoughtful There is a hole on which we can install a camera mount in the main plate. Of course, we can use the camera mount that comes with the frame In the Floss frame, there’s no such thing We have to use 3D printed TPU mount on the Floss frame. There are many frames which use similar TPU mounts But I don’t like it because it doesn’t hold a camera firmly Even though I tightened screws very strongly, the camera still moves around There are jellos in CMOS cameras And when you crash, the camera angle can be changed So I don’t prefer 3D printed camera mount. As you see, this still wiggles around even though I tightened screws really strongly It’s good to have the hole where we can mount our own camera holders Another thing I like is that the top plate’s length is about 69mm With this length, we can mount a battery on top, since most current batteries’ length is about 75mm It does only good to have choices to mount a battery on top or bottom True, to mount a battery on top, the battery should be less than 80mm in length, but it’s still good to have a top plate of this length in the light-weight frame The frame is chamfered When it is chamfered, the frame isn’t peeled off And there’s one more very good thing. That is, the motor mounting holes are from 12mm to 19mm

So we can mount popular 16mm spacing naked bottom motors We can also mount traditional 19mm x 16mm spacing motors And nowadays, there are some small motors for light-build, such as BH 1806 and 1608 motors. They use 12mm spacing and 3mm screws. We can mount them on this frame as well Therefore, we can use a variety of motors on this frame It was hard to find any frames that support 12mm and 19mm spacing all together. And most 12mm spacing has 2mm holes But most small motors nowadays are used for 5 inch build and they have 3mm holes. So it’s convenient not to drill holes Now, let’s look at the flight controller As I said before, the cost should be low when building a racing drone This is because we do damage parts eventually Having said that, the cheap parts still need to have a high-quality I think this FC looks good. The price is about $30 That is not expensive. However, it’s not a good choice to use clones In fact, I have used many clones. The problem is that they have low-quality Traces were damaged and pads were peeled off easily. I have so many damaged clones This FC is all in one with PDB I am not sure whether you can see, but the traces are wide So I think there might be no problem caused by narrow traces The next I like is that pads are not holes In the past, we used pins So most pads were hole-shapes, which made us solder in a very narrow pad Because pads were narrow and thin, they tended to be peeled away very easily I didn’t like it Nowadays, we don’t use pins, right? So I don’t think we need hole-shape pads anymore And it looks well-designed As you see, these pads are for ESCs But there’s no pads for ESCs’ signal grounds. Only positive, negative and signal pads If you want to connect signal grounds to reduce ESC noise, you need to connect them to power ground pads On the back side of the upper, there are pads for a vtx and leds On the front side, there are pads for a camera

But you need to know that the positive pads for a vtx and a camera are 7.6v Therefore, when you use a vtx and a camera which only operate in 5v, you should not connect them to these positive pads I am going to use Eachine VTX03. It only operates in 5v In that case, you have to use positive 5v in LED pads That can be disadvantage to have only one 5v pad If you have to use LEDs for a racing competition, you need to share 5v with a vtx, in that case Since the 5v bec supports 1.2A, I don’t think it will cause a problem, but it’s better to use a vtx which supports 7.6v Another thing I like is that a buzzer is in-built. I am not sure how loud it is, since it looks so small However, you need to know that the buzzer only works in betaflight 3.2. It doesn’t work in betaflight 3.1.7 and less The gyro sensor is MPU 6000 and the processor is F4 On the flip side, there is a place we can put in a micro sd card You will know how useful the blackbox is, when you are getting more skills And for the blackbox, having a micro sd card port is very convenient Battery pads are on the back side And there are pads for RXs You may not see this, but there’s a designated SBUS pad. In the F4 board, there’s only one hardware inverter In most F4 boards, there’s only one receiver signal pad for sbus, satelite, ibus and ppm. There’s usually another separate pad to invert the signal That is sometimes confusing. In this CL Racing F4, all the signal pads are easily distinguishable. There are a sbus pad, a pad for spectrum and flysky, a ppm pad, a 5v pad, a 3.3v pad and a ground pad And there are other TX and RX pads If you use smart audio, you can connect it to here There’s a current sensor, which is really good Admittedly, it’s not that meaningful to show the current draw on OSD After recording the flight, it might be helpful to see the current draw, but it’s hard to see it during the flight The real good thing about the current sensor is that you can check the battery usage People usually check the voltage to measure the battery usage, but it’s not precise The best way is to check the mah used which can be measured through the current sensor Normally, when you land the quad after using 70% of your battery capacity, the voltage of the battery is around 3.7v. For example, when you use 1000mah, you land the quad when you see 700mah Not to damage batteries, this is the best way to check And this is OSD Next, the ESCs Blheli_32 has really great features. I am going to try it

I have thought over which esc I should buy between Airbot Wraith 32 and Spedix GS30 The reason why I chose the Spedix GS30 is that first of all, it’s cheaper You can buy this at around $11 Since the Blheli_32 is not a open source but a closed source, ESCs have to be more expensive than before. Manufactures have to pay for the license So in the case of Airbot Wraith 32 35A, the prices are around $15 even with a discount But this Spedix is still cheap at arount $11. It was hard to ignore about $4 difference I also considered buying Xracer Quadrant ESCs It’s 4-in-1 but it is detachable Hmm. When you think of this kind of escs, the best thing about them is that you can replace one esc But in fact, it’s not. This is a 4-in-1 esc I recently burned one esc When you burn one esc, it’s not easy to extinguish it very quickly Even if it’s a little bit late, the burning can affect other parts seriously So when you use the Xracer as a 4-in-1 and burn one esc, chances are high to damage other escs But then, is there any benefit to use this as a 4-in-1 esc? If any, sometimes we throw away escs because pads are taken away In that case, the Xracer can be good, but I think you spend too much just for that The worst thing to use a 4-in-1 esc is that…By the way, this is the FC and ESCs AIO We usually mount the FC on top of the 4-in-1 escs Then, there’s a little space to cool the escs down The airflow is not good for the escs So the escs are susceptible to heat and easily burnt This clearly shows how hot the escs could be. Some capacitors were gone because of the heat I can say many more reasons why an amateur racer should use individual escs If you are a professional racer sponsored by companies, it’s beneficial to use a 4-in-1 esc. It can be lighter, simpler and have a well weight distribution If you are not, just go for individual escs The downside of this GS30 is that it doesn’t have a current sensor Therefore, you can’t use current limiting function, which I think one of the best in Blheli_32 That’s why I considered the Wraith 32 seriously However, at the moment, I don’t think the telemetry between an FC and ESCs are realized perfectly That means we can only use less than half of intended functions of current-sensor escs

We can’t monitor the entire current That is only good for limiting current I think it would be better to use current-sensing escs when all the things are fully realized There are many great features in Blheli_32 In other words, without current sensing, we do have many reasons to use Blheli_32 escs This esc only supports up to 4s If you want to use 5s or 6s, this is not for you In that case, escs have to be larger, but for most racing competitions, we can only use up to 4s I don’t think we need to over-spec escs when it comes to racing Spedix escs are well-known for using good MOSFETs That means current flow is good And it also generates less heat. Even better, the aluminum pad is applied to cool them down Therefore, Spedix escs are famous for delivering power well These are reasons why I bought these escs There are quite a good amount of capacitors This is a tantalum capacitor which reduces a voltage spike This will be good to reduce video noise There are many escs that don’t have it. As you can see, there’s no such thing Next is motors This is Hyperlite 2204 3022KV Actually, my main motors are Cobra Champion 2207 2600KV But when I burned one esc, one motor was also burnt I ordered a new one, but it’s still on the way So I am going to use this motor first This is 3022KV The motors are very light, weighing about 21 grams with wires Many people told me that 3022kv is too much It could be true, but I strongly believe that for the racing, you should go for high KVs Some people say that low KVs have more torque and, in turn, better efficiency The famous competition in North America is Multigp and pilots are required to run about two and half minutes Therefore, we should go low KVs for better torque and efficiency, some say That’s absolutely NON SENSE Torque doesn’t have anything to do with KV There’s no KV involved in the formula of calculating torque But it has something to do with rpm It is true that generally more torque is generated in lower rpm than higher rpm But that’s related to rpm, not KV If the rpm is similar between high kv and low kv, the torque should be similar too Hence, similar efficiency Other than rpm, torque will be determined by other factors which are already fixed in motors The factors affecting torque in motors are the stator volume, the stator diabeter and the strength of magnet For example, let’s compare 2204 and 1608 motors, Their stator volumes are similar

If all things are equal, the 2204 should have more torque, since it is wider But the 1806 is taller for the diameter, so it spins faster, reaching the set rpm more quickly So for the similar stator volume motors, the taller motors give better response and the wider motors give more torque I didn’t measure it scientifically, but 2850kv of 1806 motors should accelerate similarly to 3022kv of 2204 motors But then some people say that high kv motors have bad efficiency This is because the high kv motors use more current consistently, some say Even though we limit throttle or current, high kv motors use more current, because they spin more consistently. This is what some insist I don’t think that’s true Let’s talk about the truth. Current draw is dependent on rpms, if other things are equal Higher kv motors reach a certain rpm more quickly than lower kv motors. That’s it Rpms can be limited in a way to limit throttle in a radio, or limit current with Blheli_32, if you want to use similar rpms to low kv motors Again, similar rpms will draw similar current if everything is equal except kvs Hence, similar efficiency When we talk about more consistent current draw in higher kv motors, it doesn’t mean the same rpm It means we habitually use more rpms in higher kv motors with the same amount of throttle input as lower kv motors That’s why we use more current. Again, higher kv doesn’t draw more current with the same rpm In fact, this is a very easy to understand concept. Let’s look at car racing According to some drone racing gurus, diesel engine racing cars should be faster than gasoline engine racing cars Because the diesel has more torque and efficiency than the gasoline But in reality, gasoline engine racing cars spin engines faster and make better performance in most cases Let’s assume we race the course on an average of 30km per hour Whether it is 3000kv or 2000kv, the efficiency should be similar when we keep 30km per hour on average But there should be a moment we accelerate from 20km to 40km. Faster kv will take less time to reach Therefore, even if we keep an average of 30km for the similar efficiency, higher kv motors will have better lap time There’s no reason not to use higher kv motors in racing Higher kv will have more edge over if you know how to use The downside of it is worse throttle resolution For example, for the 2000kv motors, let’s assume that you need to move throttle up this amount to accelerate from 20km to 40km But for the 3000kv motors, you need to move it up this amount, giving worse throttle resolution You have to control throttle more subtly But this is a matter of being used to There’s no factor in KV to reduce torque and efficiency I think some ill-informed knowledge is popular in the racing drone Even a very famous pilot once mentioned that the 2206 2300kv of a certain brand is the best racing motor. For me, that doesn’t make any sense at all

If you are willing to be accustomed to the different throttle resolution, higher kv motors are absolutely better Now, let’s look at the camera. This is Foxeer Monster V2 I am using this because I am using Aomway Commander goggles. I have to use a 16:9 camera Actually, I think you should go for micro cameras such as Runcam Micro Swift or Foxeer Micro Arrow But they all have 4:3 ratio When we use a 4:3 camera with 16:9 goggles, it will squeeze the screen vertically This makes me hard to pass gates, since they look shorter But I can’t change this goggles to 4:3 ones I have tried the Fatshark HD Compared to the Fatshark, the Aomway is wider and less steep in this part Most Asians like me have wider faces So this goggles fit really well When I wore the Fatshark, the edges were just on my cheekbones Of course, many Asians use very thick foam and overcome the discomfort I felt even that was also uncomfortable, so I prefer this goggles The Aomway goggles support 4:3 ratio But there are bars on each side The actual FOV of 4:3 is not that narrow, but it feels narrow 16:9 cameras give much more natural feeling, so I am using 16:9 cameras I heard that micro 16:9 cameras will be released soon I will change this to the micro camera when it is released Next is VTX03 This is my personal opinion, but in the racing the vtx03 is good enough First of all, it’s cheap at around $9 You can choose between 25mW and 200mW And you don’t need to use a circular antenna in racing In the racing, we don’t usually go further than 200 meters So, a linear antenna is good enough to get a clear video Just in case, I ordered better linear antennas. And it’s more durable Aside from the cheap price, the VTX03 is very light It weighs just 3 grams with wires and an antenna The Unify Pro Race which is known for a light weight, still weighs about 4 grams even without wires and an antenna We don’t expect reducing weight on VTX, but still can reduce about 2-3 grams Cost-wise, you can buy three VTX03 for the price of one Unify Pro Race VTXs are actually damaged more often than we think It is inconvenient that we can’t use smart-audio

But we don’t usually change our channels once we set the channel In the practice and real racing, once we set or are designated to a channel, say Raceband 4, other guys shouldn’t use that channel, should they? Since we don’t need to change channels very often, it’s not that inconvenient not to use a smart-audio That’s all about the components This is long, but I hope you learn something after you see all of this In the next video, I am going to show my building process Thanks!

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